Buyers Guide to Vintages February 7 Release

Priming for Valentine’s Day, and New Calls for an Open Wine Market in Canada

By David Lawrason, with notes from Michael Godel, Sara d’Amato and Megha Jandhyala

This mid-sized, mid-February release features Vintages selections for Valentine’s Day, as it has for over 30 years. It is a rather Harlequin collection, including wines that are pink and/or sparkling, and of course an obligatory (thankfully very good) Saint-Amour from Beaujolais. Overall, it is a mushy grouping quality-wise.

I was not impressed until I tasted three Ontario sparkling wines. First up, and very much on theme, was Smitten, a very good sparkling riesling from Back Ten Cellars in Niagara. Interestingly they have chosen not to indicate riesling on the label, but the wine delivers that particularly fine acid/sugar sipping balance that riesling does so well. As a Charmat- or tank-fermented bubbly, it delivers well at a fair price. The ice breaker.

Things escalated with a bright, crisp 100% pinot noir Divergence Brut Rose Hughes Vineyard 2021. This label by Jeff Moote has been impressing me recently with precision winemaking creating well-defined and very well-balanced wines. He doesn’t own a winery but purchases good fruit from old-vine sites in Niagara and works his magic at the Collab co-op facility at Marynissen Estate. Up the game with oysters and raspberry mignonette perhaps.

Yet another rung was scaled by Kew Pinot Meunier Natural Brut 2019. Now owned by Arterra Wines Canada, this small property on the Beamsville Bench has solid sparkling wine record. Pinot Meunier is one of the three Champagne grapes, rarely rendered as a single variety. This long bottle aged, complex, very leesy edition has surprising intensity and depth with terrific acidity. Not as charming as the two above, but if you are out to make a Valentines dinner more soulful, this is the one. At only $32.95!

From here on, the rest of the WineAlign Crü reveal their favourites below, and you can skip right to them here. But please note two great vermouths that melt the depths of winter.

New Calls for an Open Wine Market in Canada

You may recall last spring that Canadian wine became a political focus of the promised breaking down of interprovincial trade barriers in response to Trump’s tariffs and building Canada’s self-reliance. The main idea was to introduce direct to consumer shipping (DTC) across provincial boundaries. A target for agreement (at least on a framework for agreement) was set for May 2026 — three months away. After that, the topic turtled.

But its head has popped out again in recent days as the Canadian industry seized the moment during a first ministers meeting at the end of January. Wine Growers Canada, the Canadian industry’s lobby arm in Ottawa, issued an open letter to the premiers, asking them to create “an open national wine sales market including a harmonized direct-to-consumer wine delivery, by May 2026.”

But the letter went farther. “Once a national DTC framework is implemented, provinces should shift their focus to opening the domestic wine market more fully, ensuring Canadian wine can compete fairly with imports, increase domestic market share, and drive regional economic growth, including investments in advanced agriculture, tourism, hospitality and adjacent sectors.”

The whole issue came up again February 4 during a 90-minute webinar hosted by the Vancouver-based Canadian chapter of AIDV, an international wine law association. It was held to provide updates on the interprovincial situation, and to call for action.

The four panelists of the AIDV conference described and analysed the issues with which the provinces are dealing. It is complicated because each province has over 100 years of evolved regulatory, legislative and economic structures, and they need to deal individually with other provinces. Great fun for the lawyers, but rather frustrating and sleepy stuff for those who just want to be able to drink good wine from other provinces.

My interest perked right up however when conversation turned towards the federal government needing to do more to move things along. It was suggested that “the feds” might have some legislative upper hand “to start imposing some order on this chaos” if provinces aren’t compliant.

And then came the thunderbolt from panelist David Clement, North American Affairs Manager of the Consumer Choice Centre, an international group that advocates against government regulation of several consumer products, including alcohol.

“This may seem radical,” he began. “But if I could start over and redo the system, I would abolish the provincial liquor boards and create a national open market with a uniform national alcohol tax rate. It would resolve all the provincial revenue issues, and consumers across Canada would understand what they are paying for.”

Another panelist, lawyer Shea Coulson of Coulson Litigation & Advisory, made perhaps the most compelling argument that “a truly competitive market, without the arbitrary controls imposed by the liquor boards, would greatly improve productivity.”

The rest of the time was taken up with other reasons about why this was such a good idea. Of which I have never needed convincing. And given that the feds created the provincial liquor boards almost 100 years ago, it follows they should have some sort of constitutional levers within in the webbed clockworks of the Peace Tower to dismantle them.

Panelist Dan Paszkowski, CEO of Wine Growers Canada, who signed the open letter to the premiers mentioned above, was already on record in favour of this idea. His letter ended with the following statement.

“The public interest is clear: greater choice for consumers, fairer prices, stronger domestic supply chains, and a more resilient Canadian economy. Proven policy models already exist. Consumer demand is evident. The opportunity now is to act.”

Amen, and now to our critic’s picks from the Valentine release.

Buyer’s Guide Vintages February 7: Sparkling

Kew Pinot Meunier Natural Brüt 2019, Ontario, Canada
$32.95, Arterra Wines Canada
Megha Jandhyala – Here is something a little different that might spark curiosity at a dinner party — a traditional method sparkling wine from Ontario made with pinot meunier! I really like how it feels both rich and sprightly, with delectable toasty notes layered over resonant flavours of honey roasted nuts and fresh and dried orchard and citrus fruit.
Michael Godel – Ginger spice, toasted bread and caramel accents. One of Niagara’s coolest bubbles and always worth a glass.

Divergence Hughes Vineyard Rosé Brut Sparkling 2021, Ontario, Canada
$39.95, Marynissan Estates
Sara d’Amato – It’s perfectly acceptable to keep sparkling after New Year’s, and this bottle makes a compelling case. Bright and ethereal, this local rosé Brut made entirely from pinot noir is lofty, light and carefully composed. At a mere 1 g/L of sugar, it drinks like a Brut Nature without the sharp edges. Just 800 bottles of this vintage-dated cuvée drawn from the Hughes Vineyard were disgorged, so act quickly.

Buyer’s Guide Vintages February 7: Whites

Organized Crime Sauvignon Blanc 2023, Ontario, Canada
$22.95, Rogers & Company
David Lawrason – This slim, keen and lively sauvignon blanc shows lifted aromas of fresh dill, green apple and floral aromas. It is light to medium weight, taut and fresh, with a certain delicacy that I am coming to appreciate as a trait of Beamsville Bench. Silver Medal at the National Wine Awards of Canada 2025.

Wending Home Estate Vineyard Riesling 2021, Ontario, Canada
$24.95, Wending Home Estate Vineyards & Winery
Michael Godel – Give an Ontario riesling a few years of age and it will treat you to something next level special. Characteristic petrol note and really interesting at this four-plus year mark.

Domaine Charly Nicolle Chablis Premier Cru Les Fourneaux 2022, Burgundy, France
$59.95, Nicholas Pearce Wines Inc.
Sara d’Amato – Burgundy prices may be climbing, but this 1er Cru Chablis from Les Fourneaux keeps its feet on the ground. Old vines, mineral depth, lemon-curd brightness, expansive lees, and an impressively long finish make it a purchase worth considering.

Buyer’s Guide Vintages February 7: Reds

Casas Del Toqui Terroir Selection Alto Totihue Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2021, Cachapoal Valley, Chile
$19.95, Kylix Wines
Michael Godel – Should big, bold, luxe and able bodied cabernet sauvignon be your bag and $20 the comfort zone then stop what you are doing and get to this from Chile.

Diamandes Malbec 2021, Mendoza, Argentina
$24.95, Roy + Co. Selections
Michael Godel – That this property can deliver a malbec to Ontario for a $24.95 release is absurd. You can drink any time, age for up to five years and make any cut of beef sing with this alongside.

Frankland Estate Shiraz 2022, Western Australia, Australia
$24.95, The Case For Wine
David Lawrason – This a spry, elegant and perfumed shiraz from the cool far southwest of Australia. Very poised and silky. It exudes ripe black cherry, vanilla cream, peony and spice. It is medium-full bodied, almost creamy, a touch sweet and warm.
Megha Jandhyala – This is a delicious shiraz, ripe and fruity, brimming with sweet, plump red and dark fruit, and seasoned optimally with spice and herbs

Cave De Julienas Chaintre Tradition Bois De La Salle Saint Amour 2024, Beaujolais, France
$24.95, PV W&S
Sara d’Amato – If you’re charmed by the lighter, livelier side of red, try this Beaujolais Cru from Saint-Amour that might just sweep you off your feet. This gamay is punchy, peppery and dry with a savoury edge that lingers pleasantly. It’s ready to sip today but will continue to reward over the next couple of years.

Poboleda Bon Mas 2020, Priorat, Spain
$27.95, Profile Wine Group (Du Chasse)
David Lawrason – I was shocked to see a Priorat under $30, which tells me that this once rarefied region in southern Catalonia is commercially coming down to earth. This captures good authenticity for the price, with the energized, hot stone minerality, along with ripe cherry fruit, carnation and garrigue. Some sweetness is easing the passage on the palate. The length is very good to excellent.
Michael Godel – An impossible price in Ontario it would seem. Classically-styled, charming at this level, aged to optimum drinking point in time, not for the cellar but surely worth the look.
Megha Jandhyala – At less than $30, the Poboleda is an irreproachable introduction to both the Priorat region and this well-known winery. Made with grenache that is organically grown on steep Llicorella terraces, it has an unpretentious, authentic charm that combines lushness with freshness and elegance with inviting generosity.

Ladies Who Shoot Their Lunch Shiraz 2021, Victoria, Australia
$29.95, Vonterra
Sara d’Amato – Not everyone shares my enthusiasm for rotundone, the spicy, peppery magic in some wines. In fact, it’s estimated that 25% of people can’t smell it at all. But for those who do, this shiraz hits the mark. Wild-fermented, full-bodied yet lively, it’s modern, stylish and surprisingly fresh with impressive length and rich appeal. It’s enjoyable whether or not you happen to be a female carnivore.

Tawse Growers Blend Cabernet Franc 2020, Ontario, Canada
$29.95, Tawse
Megha Jandhyala – Made by the late great Paul Pender, this is an exemplary Ontario cabernet franc. Everything is in equilibrium here and in its place. It is perfectly ripe, showing both vigour and the kind of complexity that comes with age.

Van Loggerenberg High Hopes Syrah/Grenache 2023, Swartland, South Africa
$31.95, Le Sommelier Inc.
David Lawrason – This has such a great, classic, Swartland syrah nose. Very lifted and complex with all kinds of pepper, prosciutto, olive, brambleberry fruit and oak vanillin. It is full bodied, dense and intense. Some heat, great acid and minerality, with excellent length and focus.
Michael Godel – Gustatory and therefore delicious, from a Western Cape ’23 that drinks at peak. Yet another high-quality wine from a gentle giant Afrikaaner winemaker.
Sara d’Amato – A compelling, modern syrah-grenache blend from the progressive region of Swartland. A clean, low-interventionist style made using spontaneous fermentation and matured in old oak barrels, unfined and unfiltered. Widely appealing — both lush and nervy with voluminous tannins and generous fruit.

Cloudsley End Of The Road Pinot Noir 2021, Ontario, Canada
$49.95, Noble Estates Wines & Spirits Inc.
Sara d’Amato – Pale ruby garnet in the glass, this pinot is sourced from a single vineyard owned by the Wiley’s. It is known as End of the Road and features clay-loam soils in the Twenty Mile Bench. It shows grace in maturity with bright cherry, dried leaf and gentle wood spice that are woven seamlessly on the palate with silky tannins and complex tertiary notes that have emerged as the fruit softens, culminating in a memorable finish.

Zonin Amarone Della Valpolicella 2021, Veneto, Italy
$49.95, Andrew Peller Limited
David Lawrason – This could score over a hearty wintry Valentine’s dinner. It is a classic, traditional amarone with its very complex nose of dried cherry, roasted chestnut, gentle smoke, pepper and herbs. It is full bodied, warm yet quite elegant with fine acidity. The 15.5% alcohol is under control.
Megha Jandhyala – This is an impeccably balanced Amarone — dense with fruit and delightfully warm, yet supported by firm, refreshing acidity and an abundance of lush tannins. The concentration and length of this wine are impressive.

La Bégude Des Papes Châteauneuf Du Pape 2022, Rhône, France
$57.95, Liquid Assets
Sara d’Amato – Big, bold and satisfying, Albin Jacumin’s La Béguide draws predominantly from northern Châteauneuf parcels in this grenache-led blend bolstered by mourvèdre, syrah, and a splash of old vine cinsault. A gentle swell of warmth on the palate is no surprise given the Rhône’s hottest terroir and the sun-soaked 2022 vintage — but it’s all seamlessly knit

Buyer’s Guide Vintages February 7: Fortified

Valsangiacomo Vittore Vermouth Reserva, Valencia, Spain
$24.95, Profile Wine Group (Du Chasse)
David Lawrason – Wow what wonderful fragrance — so lifted, sappy evergreen, juniper, amaro nutty, licorice, dried orange peel, toffee and coriander (in no particular order). It is full bodied, very sweet but so elegant, built on fine acidity. Fine enough to sip without ice or other alterations or trimmings. So pure.

González Byass La Copa Vermouth Rojo, Jerez, Spain
$25.95, Woodman Wines & Spirits
Megha Jandhyala – Liquorice, oregano, mint, lemongrass, cloves, nutmeg, aniseed…a multitude of herbs join prunes and dried orange and lemon peel in this aromatically intense, memorable vermouth. I would enjoy this potent drink on the rocks as an aperitif or a nightcap.

And that’s a wrap for this edition. We return two weeks hence with a review of Vintages February 21 release with its focus on wines from the Southern Hemisphere.

Use these quick links for access to all of our February 7th Top Picks in the New Release. Non-premium members can select from all release dates 60 days prior.

Lawrason’s Take – February 7th
Michael’s Mix – February 7th
Sara’s Selections – February 7th
Megha’s Picks – February 7th

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