Buyer’s Guide to Vintages February 15th Release
Trump Drives a Wedge into the Canada-U.S. Wine Friendship
By David Lawrason, with notes John Szabo and Sara d’Amato
WineAlign will continue to review American wines while they are sold through the LCBO. We are unanimous on this. Our job is to review available wines no matter where they come from. It is then up to each of us to purchase US wine or not according to our conscience.
If you decide not to buy American but still hanker for big, rich, winter-warming, hot-climate cabs and shiraz, there are some very good buys from Australia, which is featured in this release. There are also a couple of dandy cooler climate Aussie pinot noirs, and a clutch of intriguing semillon-based whites. Australia is not stuck in the past, folks, in fact resurfacing as one of the most dynamic regions in the world.
And if you are now buying Canadian-only, there is a very good buy in the Le Clos Jordanne 2021 Villages Pinot Noir, and a very good value Trius 2023 Distinction Chardonnay.
Before we get to our other picks, I want to return to the Canada-U.S. situation, and why it is so difficult for the wine community.
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The major wine producing states of California, Washington and Oregon — responsible for about 90% of American wine — are staunchly blue or democrat states that did not vote Trump. It has been suggested that Canada might even want to annex them as our 13th, 14th and 15th provinces/territories. Show me that petition!
Interestingly, the other top ten largest wine producing states — New York, Vermont and Virginia — are blue states, too. The other four were swing states that went red this time, Michigan (by less than 100,000 votes), Pennsylvania (by 100,000 votes), Ohio and Kentucky. There is perhaps a conclusion to be drawn linking wine culture, liberal mindedness and inclusion.
In recent days, I have spoken with wine industry representatives in California and Oregon, who feel the threatened tariffs against Canada and potential retaliatory tariffs and consumer boycotts are a disaster. “We are devasted by how this is all playing out,” wrote one. Not least of which because Canada is their largest export market.
Speaking for myself, and I suspect for some of them too, it goes deeper than market shares. I have literally spent many months, perhaps even years, of my time and energy over my 40-year career visiting and tasting at wineries and teaching and writing about American wine on the west coast and in New York, as a journalist, friend and neighbour. And as a critic too, especially of late, as the price/quality gap has yawned wider and the cheaper wines get sweeter.
So, it makes me even more incensed that Donald Trump — a heartless fascist in my view — is driving this wedge between friends and families and business associates in Canada and the U.S. Unfortunately, boycotting American wine is low-hanging fruit, and a high-impact protest politically. A Nanos poll Monday said 90% of Canadians would boycott American alcohol.
So with serious sadness and anger, and with apologies to my American friends, I must stand with Canadians on this. I will personally boycott the purchase of American wine, while continuing to do my job.
Buyer’s Guide February 15th: White Wines
Trius Distinction Barrel Fermented Chardonnay 2023, Ontario, Canada
$19.95, Andrew Peller Limited
David Lawrason – This is a slim and well-balanced chardonnay. It shows lifted quite toasty, dried onion crisp notes with subtle butter/cream and wood spice. I like the lighter, tighter line without skimping on flavour. Very good value.
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There are 10 other Vintages recommendations this week that are currently only available to our premium members. This complete article will be free and visible to all members 30 days after publication. We invite you to subscribe today to unlock our top picks and other Premium benefits
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And that’s a wrap for this edition. We return in two weeks with a review of Vintages March 1 release.
Use these quick links for access to all of our February 15th Top Picks in the New Release. Non-premium members can select from all release dates 30 days prior.
John’s Top Picks – February 15th
Lawrason’s Take – February 15th
Sara’s Selections – February 15th
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