Buyer’s Guide to Vintages January 18th Release

Wine Gives us Reasons to Hope
by David Lawrason, with notes from Michael Godel, Megha Jandhyala and Sara d’Amato

It is not just a little ironic that Vintages January 18 Catalogue features “sustainable winemaking” in California as Los Angeles burns, and the United States inaugurates a climate change agnostic as president. 

But let’s be positive here folks. Environmental concerns are no less critical just because Trump is now in power — for only four years. The environmental fight must be kept going by businesses that get the reality. And the wine industry, globally, is the perfect vector to keep it front and centre. Most winemakers are essentially farmers, deeply connected to their land and aware of climate repercussion. They are also selling their product to relatively enlightened, wealthy consumers. The wine industry must press on!

The environmental and social movements within the wine industry go well beyond California — again, because most winemakers get it no matter where they farm. I have been inundated with the “sustainable” messaging from wine regions all over the globe in the past decade. To the point of marketing/messaging nausea. But the message remains critical.


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The South African Example

And now let’s get really positive. I spent 10 days in South Africa last fall. I have been there six times, and I love the place, for its wines, sure, but more for a sense of humanity that I have not felt anywhere else on the planet — despite all the adversity its black and coloured citizens endure. I am very aware I am observing from a bubbled, privileged perspective, but this place has soul born in adversity and the need to help each other.

On my recent trip I was amazed by the emanation of this spirit, coming from the wineries I visited. I was partially hosted by PIWOSA — the Private Independent Wineries of South Africa — but the spirit is not limited to this organization. Every winery seems to have compelling stories to tell about social and environmental action.

Before I detail some of them, please realize that South Africa is essentially a poor country with a devalued currency. The majority of the impoverished population is unable to pay taxes. So, social and environmental responsibility has been handed, rightfully, to businesses and wealthier citizens.

I saw this in action during a visit to Journey’s End Winery in Stellenbosch. The winery neighbours the Sir Lowrys Pass Township where most of its workers live. It has established two classrooms for kindergarten and grade one students. It has funded a women’s sewing group to make handbags from recyclable materials. And it is funding a project to brighten up the drab township with mural art that North American taggers could only dream to emulate.

Down the road in Elgin, apple grower and winemaker Paul Cluver has established a private school on his property that is now among the largest and most successful in the Cape region. Environmentally, they are also part of a widespread program to reintroduce native vegetation to entice imperiled animal and bird species. The Cape, by the way, is one Earth’s six bio biosphere.

Near Hermanus, Hamilton-Russell is at the forefront of huge environmental protections as well. But I most love that Anthony Hamilton-Russell has tutored and funded his former nanny in the launch of Tesselaarsdal, a fantastic new wine, from her home village, where there was formerly no viticulture.

In Swartland, Eben Sadie is the ultimate environmentalist, with biodymanic and regenerative viticulture to the nth degree. At any given time, he is also funding multi-year college tuition for three or four of his employees. And making immaculate and exciting wines that are now very hard to find.

The Chenin Blanc Association runs an annual blind tasting competition sponsored by Standard Bank. It names the top ten chenin blancs in the country and awards a large cash prize for each, that wineries must direct to a charity of their choice. (More to come on South African chenin blanc.)

So, here is reason to hope, and I am really proud of the wine industry’s uptake around environmental and social issues.

Before getting to our recommendations this week, a note to check out Michael Godel’s latest report on Montalcino.

Here are our picks from Vintages January 18 release.

Buyer’s Guide January 18th: Sparkling Wine

De Chanceny Brut Crémant De Loire, Loire, France
$19.30, Vinexx
Megha Jandhyala – If you are looking for a reasonably priced sparkling wine to serve at parties or casual weeknight dinners, this Crémant de Loire is a great candidate. It is ever so slightly toasty and sweet, with pleasing flavours of zesty fruit and fresh herbs.

There are 16 other Vintages recommendations this week that are currently only available to our premium members. This complete article will be free and visible to all members 30 days after publication. We invite you to subscribe today to unlock our top picks and other Premium benefits

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And that’s a wrap for this edition. John will return in two weeks with a look at the February 1st Vintages Release.

Use these quick links for access to all of our January 18th Top Picks in the New Release. Non-premium members can select from all release dates 30 days prior.
Lawrason’s Take – January 18th
Megha’s Picks – January 18th
Michael’s Mix – January 18th
Sara’s Selections – January 18th

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