Buyer’s Guide to Vintages September 27th Release

Aged Wines – Expectation and Reality

By David Lawrason, with notes from Sara d’Amato, Michael Godel and John Szabo

The twin maxims that all wine is better with age — and the older the better — is just not true. I sense that most WineAlign readers know this, but it is worth repeating as Vintages September 27 release offers Mature Outlook as it theme and presents wines at various stages of maturity. I want to use their selections to discuss the ageing process. And then we provide our recommendations from this release, whether mature or not.

But first a note about my most recent encounter with aged wines, ironically at the Celebration of Life for John Tait held on September 27. John was one of the original LCBO Vintages product consultants, a fine, gentle, intelligent, man who was liked by everyone, and who loved wine to the nth degree. His good nature was literally on pour at the National Club in Toronto, as his personal cellar was dispensed for all to enjoy.

Despite my instinct to make this a tasting opportunity, it was more important to sip away and reminisce with dozens of lifelong friends and acquaintances. But, without making notes, I did sip three aged pinot noirs. A Bouchard 2012 Beaune from Burgundy was nicely balanced but rather boring flavourwise, showing mature character but not much vitality or depth (which may have been a vintage thing). Next a Felton Road Pinot Noir, the most famous pinot of New Zealand, of similar vintage. It was more intense and interesting, evolved to a good place with fruit still in place, and drinking well.

Neither prepared me for the breathtaking intensity, vitality and complexity of a 2004 Pinot Noir from Closson Chase of Prince Edward County. The fruit, barrel and aged aromas were explosive and riveting! The palate was alive with acidity, and the depth of flavour was outstanding — all this from vines that were only five years old in a wine region that was just beginning to show its stuff at the hand of Deborah Paskus, who’s signature was on the back label.

So, one important consideration about mature wine is that, despite knowing the theory, you just never know from bottle to bottle.

The ageing of wine is essentially the process of fruit rotting. We have all had bruised, browning fruit experiences due to exposure to oxygen — expiring fruit bowls, windfall orchard fruit. In the bottle, the process goes slow-mo because reductive ageing (in the absence of oxygen) takes over, very gradually changing the flavours. Primary fruit and floral elements morph into more earthy, leathery, nutty (tertiary) notes. But at some point — considered “prime” — the juxtaposition of youth and aged aromas is ideal, creating more complexity.

The other thing that happens with age is that the structural elements of acid, alcohol and especially tannin (in reds) start to meld, creating refined, elegant texture (smoothness). The more full-bodied, structured and tannic the wine is, the longer the process will take, projecting the drinking dates we often provide. But there are other factors in longevity. The level of acidity is one, proven by the ageability of white wines with high acid, like riesling and Champagne.

And then there is storage temperature with ageing slowing down the cooler the temperature. In a recent article, Michael Vaughan discussed the vitality of 50-year old Inniskillin reds stored all this time at 6C, which is seven degrees colder than what is widely considered normal cellar temperature. You may or may not want your wines to outlive you.

We did not taste all the “13 Well Aged Wines” that Vintages highlights in this release. And there are two non-highlighted older wines that perhaps should have been included. In the notes below I have arranged them in youngest to oldest by vintage date, with comments explaining reasons for expectation and the actual state of maturity.

Adamo Lowrey Vineyard Grower’s Series Pinot Noir 2019 from Niagara should be at prime as a six-year-old pinot from an excellent, old vines site, but it is way over the hill with pale tawny colour. The oxidative nutty aromas are appealing but the palate fruit (and, thus, pinot character) is unrecognizable while the tannins have not diminished. Dried out. What happened here?

Cavino Nemea Grande Reserve 2018 from Greece is maturing nicely toward prime, as expected for a mid-weight red of seven years, with an appealing complex of fruit, herbal, barrel and aged aromas. Tannins are still in play.

Château De Monrecueil 2016 is also at prime. It was an excellent year for age-worthy Bordeaux, and this inexpensive Right Bank merlot has moved along on schedule. No great depth but aromatic complexity and balance are what I am looking for in a nine-year old Bordeaux, at a good price.

La Spinona Bergera Barolo 2015. Barolo is one the world’s most age-worthy wines, so 2015 should be starting into the drinking zone where notorious tannins are softening. And they are, but flavours here are very earthy and oxidative well ahead of their due date. Winery handling, or shipping and storage to blame?

Forget Brimont 1er Cru Brut Champagne 2014 is a case study for the longevity of the light bodied but highly structured whites of northern France. Complex, deep, elegant and still dancing, with years ahead.

Montes Alpha Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 from Chile is still vibrant, fruit driven and almost rich. Non-European cabernets are just a durable as Bordeaux, if not more so.

R. López De Heredia Viña Tondonia Reserva 2013 is a classic Rioja designed for long ageing. It is in prime time with pitch-perfect balance. I expected more flavour intensity and dynamism, but it is very complex.

Stratus White 2007 from Niagara emulates white Bordeaux, which can be long-lived in upper tier examples. This is amazingly youthful, complex and intriguing.

Izarbe Gran Reserva 2007. Gran Reserva from Rioja, Spain, is expected to be at prime, and this sturdy, well balanced bottling meets that expectation. May live another five years.

Urbina Especial Reserva 2006 from Rioja is slipping away. Fascinating, complex aromas and fine texture, but distracting, creeping oxidation says drink up.

Here are our critics recommendations, young and old and in between, arranged in ascending price order. There is more alignment than usual, perhaps overall we felt this was a weaker release and we focused on the best.

Buyer’s Guide Vintages September 27th: Whites & Sparkling

Nals Margreid Hill Pinot Grigio 2023, Alto Adige-Trentino, Italy
$25.95, Mondo Vino
John Szabo – A pinot grigio of more serious and qualitative demeanor than the mean, with genuine depth and complexity, and layered flavour definition, well beyond the commercial mould. Drink or hold until the end of the decade.
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And that is wrap for this edition. We return for a look at Vintages selection of Italy’s Iconic Wines and Hidden Gems on the October 11 Release. Wishing you and your families a bountiful Thanksgiving.

Cheers,
David Lawrason
VP of Wine

Use these quick links for access to all of our September 27th Top Picks in the New Release. Non-premium members can select from all release dates 30 days prior.

John’s Top Picks – September 27th
Lawrason’s Take – September 27th
Michael’s Mix – September 27th
Sara’s Selections – September 27th

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