Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2022, Riserva 2021, and the First Release of New Top Tier “Pieve” Wines from the 2021 Vintage
By John Szabo MS
The big news this year at the annual ‘anteprima’, or preview tastings of the latest Vino Nobile di Montepulciano wines to arrive on the market, was the official launch of the long awaited Pieve designation. These are essentially Riserva-level wines from one of 12 pievi (singular: pieve) or parishes within the DOCG, the latest and now top level category of wines for this historic district. Was the wait worth it? For this reviewer the release might have been a bit premature. Read on for details on the new designation and the top wines released under it, so far, from the 2021 vintage.
Also arriving on markets now are the excellent 2022 Vino Nobile annata, a five-star (out of five) vintage with some terrific wines, one of the strongest releases in my 15-odd years of reporting on the region, as well as the 2021 Riservas, which is easily as strong a group as the new pieve-designated wines, some might argue stronger.
Jump to John Szabo’s Buyer’s Guides:
Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2022
Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva 2021
Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Pieve 2021
Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Older Vintages
Launch of the Pieve at the Church of San Biagio. Photo ©John Szabo
The Parishes of Montepulciano Enter the Market
“We have waited more than five years for this moment, which is undoubtedly a significant milestone in the history of our denomination,” says Andrea Rossi, president of the Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Wine Consortium.
Rossi is referring to the introduction of the new, top tier Vino Nobile di Montepulciano wines with Pieve designation (pl. Pievi), officially presented on Saturday, February 15, 2025, to over 200 international journalists and industry opinion leaders during the annual Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Wine Preview. The presentation took place in one of Montepulciano’s most representative locations—the Church of San Biagio, which also lends its name to one of the twelve Pievi, or parishes, within the commune of Montepulciano in southeastern Tuscany.
Pieve: Old Vines, Native Varieties, Extended Ageing
Historical research into the geology and geography of the region led to the identification of twelve Pievi, specific sub-zones within the denomination of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, officially recognized in the production specifications as UGAs (Additional Geographical Units), the equivalent of the UGAs of Chianti Classico or Soave, for example, though with more stringent production regulations
The defining characteristics of this new wine include an exclusive focus on Sangiovese 85%, up from 70% for annata and riserva, and with the exclusive use of complementary native red grape varieties up to 15% – no non-native varieties are permitted as they are for the other categories. Additionally, all grapes must come from the same estate that bottles the wine. Labels of qualifying wines will include the Pieve name.
Pieve Tech Specs at a Glance:
To be labeled with a specific Pieve name, the grapes must come from vineyards owned or controlled by the producer and located entirely within that named Pieve.
- Vineyards must be at least 15 years old
- Minimum 3 Years ageing before release, of which at least one year in oak barrel and one year in bottle
- Minimum 85% Sangiovese (or Prugnolo Gentile) with the remaining 15% allowed to be from only four traditional varieties: Canaiolo Nero, Ciliegiolo, Colorino, and Mammolo.
- Higher measure of dry extract: 26g/l up from 23 g/l
The Twelve Pievi:
Ascianello, Badia, Caggiole, Cerliana, Cervognano, Gracciano, Le Grazie, San Biagio, Sant’Albino, Sant’Ilario, Valardegna and Valiano
The decision to use territorial toponyms linked to the ancient Pievi—the parish districts that have historically divided the region since late Roman and Lombard times—stems from the consorzio’s extensive research into the region’s historical archives and libraries, and reflects the Leopoldine Cadastre, a land registry implemented in the era of the Tuscan Grand Duchy (1817-1835) that provided detailed information about land ownership, land use, and property valuations within the Grand Duchy.
According to initial estimates from the Consortium, production of the Pieve wines is expected to account for about 10% of the total Vino Nobile di Montepulciano wine output, or approximately 600,000 bottles per year.
The idea behind the introduction of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano wine with the Pieve designation (which will complement Vino Nobile di Montepulciano and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva wines) emerged from a structured process that involved consensus and participation from all producers:
“This internal study of the denomination, fostered through meetings, discussions, and collective analysis, led to the creation of a unified vision for Vino Nobile di Montepulciano wine—one supported by research and expert input. The project was rooted in geological and pedological studies, a focus of the Consortium since the 1990s, which was among the first in Italy to zone its production area, later translating this into a detailed map by Enogea. – Consorzio Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
And the Wines?
It’s still clearly too early to start making judgements on the character of each of the pievi, at least based on the wines alone. But at this point there’s little to tell between the Riserva and Pieve categories. Indeed, many of the former are essentially pieve wines, sangiovese-based from estate vineyards within a particular pieve and given the sufficient ageing to qualify. They’re just not labelled as such.
Several top producers were also notably absent from the tasting, having not yet released a pieve (or perhaps don’t plan to), so in order to fill out the ranks of the tasting, unfinished wines were included, never a fair judgement. In fact, only 13 of the 27 wines shown were actually commercially available, the rest were either still ageing in bottle, or worse, cask samples not even bottled yet.
I suppose there wouldn’t have been much of a launch tasting with only a baker’s dozen wines, but it may have been preferable to wait another year to present a decent number of pieve wines, finished, and reflective of the quality (and price) aspirations of the category.
See the Buyer’s Guide below for the best of the release.
Wine Thieves Podcast: Learn More about Vino Nobile and the Genesis of the Pievi
Sara d’Amato and I had a sneak preview of this new premium category of Vino Nobile back in 2021, when we published a three-part Wine Thieves podcast series on the wines and territory of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, including interviews with producers and representatives of the Consorzio, as well as Alessandro “Map Man” Masnaghetti of Enogea, the company tasked with drawing up the boundaries of each of the 12 Pievi and cataloguing vineyards within each. The discussions remain as valid now as they were then – click on the episode links below to listen in.
1. Vino Nobile di Montepulciano: Past, Present and Future
In this first of a 3-part series, we speak with president Andrea Rossi, and vice-presidents, Susanna Crociani and Luca Tiberini, (also all producers) of the Consorzio Vino Nobile di Montepulciano to learn of the illustrious history of the region, its traditions that united a community under the sphere of Florentine influence, grape varieties, and soils. Sommelier student alert: we also get a sneak peek at the imminent changes to come from this multi-faceted wine growing region, including a new cru system of sub-zones named after local medieval parishes, defined by elevation, aspect and soils.
2. The Cartographer of Montepulciano
John and Sara speak with mapmaker straordinario Alessandro Masnaghetti, founder of Enogea, publisher of the world’s most detailed maps of wine regions. More than just practical tools, these are works of cultural significance, humanizing and preserving a living landscape. But they do also help us to understand a wine’s shaded nuances of flavour and structure, positioning each in contextual time and space. Masnaghetti’s map of Montepulciano guides the Wine Thieves as they delve deeper into the distinctive terroir of Vino Nobile.
3. Sangiovese: A Reflection of Terroir in Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
The Wine Thieves get their hands dirty with a star quartet of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano producers to learn why and how soil matters most to sangiovese, more than any other production parameter. Weighing in from their estates in Montepulciano are: Andrea Lonardi [formerly] of Tenuta Tre Rose, Luca Tiberini of Tiberini, Luca Corrado of Boscarelli and Antonio Zaccheo of Carpineto. Sangiovese can be delicate! It can also be hearty, tannic, high acid, soft and approachable. A chameleon that is impressively reflective of terroir, we draw inevitable comparisons between Italy’s most famous grape and another equally transparent one: pinot noir.
Exports to Canada
In case you’re wondering, the sales of Vino Nobile to Canada show steady growth, accounting for around 5% of total export sales, the fourth largest export market after Germany, the US, and the Netherlands. Of note is that 100% of the wines imported into Canada were certified organic. Internationally, where about 2/3rds of total production is sold, organic-certified wines accounted for just over 50% of total sales.
The 2022 Vintage: Rated 5 Stars out of 5 by the Consorzio:
“The 2022 wines, tasted after malolactic fermentation, displayed highly intense colours and remarkable aromatic complexity. They also showed excellent concentration, supported by abundant yet refined and pleasant tannins, along with moderate acidity. Analytically, the wines displayed high values of colour intensity and hue, alcohol content, extract levels, and total polyphenols, whilst acidity and pH levels were within an average range. These characteristics were also confirmed during the Preview tasting sessions”
In my experience, 2022 is indeed an excellent vintage, with the top equaling many Riservas, if perhaps not in ageability, certainly in pleasure, depth and complexity.
John Szabo’s Buyer’s Guide: 2022 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2022
93 Il Molinaccio di Montepulciano Vino Nobile di Montepulciano La Spinosa 2022
With its pale red garnet colour, Il Molinaccio’s Vino Nobile stands out from the range of 2022s, a lifted, open, refined and elegant style, distinctive, spicy, post-modern. The palate is silky and refined, succulent and juicy, with such lovely, fine-grained tannins and excellent length. The Poggio di Sotto or Podere Giodo of Montepulciano, and lovely as such. Toute en finesse; Drinkable now, but should have a long landing strip, into the mid-30s, even if waiting is not necessary. Tasted February 2025.
93 Talosa Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Alboreto 2022
One of the more aromatically open and interesting ’22s, Talosa’s annata is a broad and plush, substantial wine on the palate, silky-firm, with excellent depth and substance, a genuine mouthful, though not yet near prime enjoyment. I like the fluid nature of the tannins, viscous but still flowing, and the notable sapidity and especially length. A superior example from the vintage, represents the territory well. Tasted February 2025.
93 Tenuta di Gracciano Della Seta Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2022
Deep, pure red. Aromatically closed for now, but there’s simmering underlying complexity peeking through. The palate is fluid and sleek, firming up on the back end – tannins are firm and structured, balanced by succulent acids – there’s notable salinity and sapidity on offer, and excellent length. A superior example, best from 2027 – a Nobile of genuine substance and depth; really enjoying this. Tasted February 2025.
93 Tenuta Valdipiatta Vino Nobile di Montepulciano SELEZIONE Vigna d’Alfiero 2022
There’s more polish and wood spice noted here than on Valdipiatta’s VN ‘normale’ from 2022, polished, modern, but it works well here considering the density of the ripe, dark fruit flavours and will surely integrate in time. The palate is broad and plush, mouthfilling and refined, with tannins subsumed by ample fruit extract, and excellent balance and depth, not to mention length. A very strong wine overall, best from 2027. Tasted February 2025.
92 Le Bèrne Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2022
Medium-deep red-red. Good volume on the nose, with plenty of ripe, dark fruit waiting to emerge in time and subtle, old wood influence. Broad, plush, and ripe on the palate, with plenty of zest and mouthfilling, dark fruit flavours; tannins are supple and the overall texture is fluid, carried on some alcoholic warmth. Length is very good to excellent; this should enter a fine drinking phase fairly early, from 2026-2027, yet hold comfortably into the ’30s, such is the substance. Tasted February 2025.
92 Manvi Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Arya 2022
Medium red. Shows a more oxidative, open profile than the mean from ’22, spicy, red fruit-inflected example. The palate is equally open-knit and juicy, with light, silky tannins and excellent fluidity, also length – this really hangs on in a more elegant and refined style, no hard edges, just graceful presentation. Best from 2026. Tasted February 2025.
92 Poliziano Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2022
Medium red-red. Polished and appealing straight off, this is professionally dialled red wine with wide appeal. The palate is fluid and broad, really well balanced with supple, velvety tannins and excellent length. Manages the difficult tightrope of appeal and authenticity, polished, modern and sophisticated. Best from 2027. Nicely done. Tasted February 2025.
92 Boscarelli Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2022
Pure medium red. Closed on the nose like most of the ’22s at this stage, Boscarelli’s classic Vino Nobile shows an enveloping, more open nature on the palate, particularly spicy, with fine, furry tannins and zesty acids. It will take another 2-3 years minimum to enter prime drinking window, but shows considerable promise. Balanced and well made overall. Tasted February 2025.
91 Tenuta Valdipiatta Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2022
Medium red-garnet. Clean, ripe but subdued, with moderate, old wood impact, gentle baking spice and lightly desiccated fruit condition. The palate is medium-full, with plush, velvety tannins surrounded by ripe acids with very good depth and substance. Fine length, too. Well-balanced, well made, solid Nobile. Best from 2027. Tasted February 2025.
Buyer’s Guide: Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva 2021
94 Tenuta di Gracciano Della Seta Vino Nobile di Montepulciano RISERVA 2021
Deep red-red-garnet. Compelling and complete nose, with a fine mix of dark fruit, old wood spice, savoury herbs, nose-filling, a pleasure to enjoy. The palate is fullish, savoury and broad, with fine balance between fine and ripe tannins and succulent-zesty acids. Wood is perfectly integrated and the length is exceptional. A cut above the mean, drinking from about 2027-2036 or so. Complete, quality wine. Tasted February 2025.
93 Boscarelli Vino Nobile di Montepulciano RISERVA 2021
Just starting to open at this stage, Boscarelli’s ’21 Riserva is still some years away from prime, with a richer story to tell in terms of red fruit and wood spice. The palate is appealingly mid-weight, firm but not unyielding, with abundant but fine tannins, and a broad range of fruit and spice on offer. Length is very good to excellent. I appreciate the refinement and elegance underlying the ensemble. Best from 2027. Tasted February 2025.
91 Lunadoro Vino Nobile di Montepulciano RISERVA Quercione 2021
Medium-deep garnet red. Notably spicy and stemmy, with modest fruit presence even at this relatively early stage – it’s a wine based on oxidative flavours and spice. The palate, however, shows appealing juiciness and fluidity, quite fine tannins and zesty acids, in a tonic and savoury style, drinking reasonably well at the moment but no rush. Tasted February 2025.
90 Le Bèrne Vino Nobile di Montepulciano RISERVA 2021
Deep plummy-red colour; plenty of ripe, dark fruit and old wood spice leads on a full-bodied, highly extracted frame. Tannins are abundant and turning astringent, firmed up further by a lick of acetic acids and underlying classic acids. Alcohol comes across as warming on the back end. Lots of substance, but elegance seems to have been sacrificed. Try after 2027. Tasted February 2025.
Buyer’s Guide: Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva Pieve 2021
93 Il Molinaccio di Montepulciano Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Pieve Valardegna 2021
Pale medium red-red. Open and spicy in the Molinaccio style, with pure red fruit and savoury spice, fluid and delicate on the palate. What’s especially invigorating is the salinity and sapidity on offer. A delicate yet powerful and deceptively dense wine, with long finish. Quality wine. Best from 2026. Tasted February 2025.
93 Tenuta di Gracciano Della Seta Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Pieve Gracciano 2021
Quality wine here; the nose offers a fine mix of spicy dark fruit and exotic spice, orange zest and cinnamon bark – there’s a lightly dusty note in the bottle. Second bottle (actually tasting all three samples on hand together): more delicacy and refinement – this shows what I was hoping it would, fine if still frim and youthful tannins, but enmeshed in abundant fruit extract. Shows a refined and sensitive hand. Best after 2027. Tasted February 2025.
92 Podere Tiberini Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Pieve Caggiole 2021
A Pieve of substance immediately notable on the nose, dark and meaty, gamey, with marked peppery-spice, and darker fruit. Tannins here are firm and woolly, furry, a long way from resolution. Revisit in 3-4 years. Balance and depth are very good to excellent. Should develop very favourably. Tasted February 2025.
92 Marchesi Frescobaldi Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Pieve Cervognano 2021
A more advanced, mature wine than the mean from 2021 and the new Pieve designation, Frescobaldi’s example strikes a modern pose with its supple texture and sweet dark fruit, also notable but integrated oak spice. Tannins are broad and fluid, grippy but pliant. Should evolve well. Have to say I enjoy this, a welcome relief from harder, more extracted versions. Tasted February 2025.
92 Tenuta Trerose Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Pieve Valiano 2021
Fluid, fresh, balanced, supple, a fine and juicy style, representative of the Valiano Pieve, an island apart from the rest of Montepulciano. Tannins are fine and light, silky-firm, supplemented by succulent acids. Very good length. Works well. Sandy expression. Tasted February 2025.
91 Poliziano Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Pieve Caggiole 2021
Pale red, medium depth; Shows some advanced, oxidative characteristics, though genuine depth and substance on the palate alongside some alcoholic heat. Neither over nor underdone, it’s not a wine that will strike immediately but rather unfold and unfurl over time, in bottle and in the glass. Best from 2027. Tasted February 2025.
91 La Ciarliana Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Pieve Cerliana 2021
Marked by youthful, sweet oak spice notes off the top, La Ciarliana’s Cerliana is a dense and chewy, highly extracted wine with palate-warming alcohol. Tannins are abundant and broad, framing dark fruit, black cherry and coconut-lactone character. Still very tight, a wine to revisit in 3-4 years minimum. Length is excellent. Not my preferred style, but it deserves some recognition. Tasted February 2025.
91 Le Bèrne Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Pieve Cervognano 2021
Pure medium red-red. Thick and rich on the palate, with dark fruit dominating and quality wood spice. Tannin quality is good, still firm and tight, several years still from prime – try after 2027. Tasted February 2025.
John Szabo’s Buyer’s Guide: Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Older Vintages
92 De’ Ricci Cantine Storiche Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2021
Medium red-red. Fine and refined, succulent and juicy, a saline and fluid style, with sophisticated extraction, neither under nor over. I like the deceptive length and depth, and the elegant styling – a Nobile that manages to be more without recourse to excess, a real vineyard expression; should continue to develop nicely into the’30s. Tasted February 2025.
91 De’ Ricci Cantine Storiche Vino Nobile di Montepulciano SELEZIONE Soraldo 2020
Pale-medium garnet. Attractive, open and spicy, De’ Ricci’s 2020 Soraldo Selezione delivers considerable complexity off the top in a fragrant and spicy ensemble. The palate is properly fluid, balanced and savoury, with a fine mix of fruit and ultra-fine tannins, nicely integrated at this stage. I appreciate the lingering finish and the delicacy on offer. Drink or hold into the early ’30s. Tasted February 2025.
91 Tenuta Poggio alla Sala Vino Nobile di Montepulciano RISERVA 2020
Pure medium red colour; the nose is evolving nicely now, featuring ripe red fruit and a touch of wood spice, integrated, not exaggerated, also stemmy-twiggy character. The palate shows good balance and fluidity, savoury-saline components, fine, lightly dusty tannins and zesty acids. Nicely balanced overall. Drink or hold into the early ’30. Tasted February 2025.
91 Tenuta Trerose Vino Nobile di Montepulciano RISERVA Simposio 2020
Polished and wood-inflected with its cacao and coffee bean aromatics, Trerose’s Simposio 2020 represents the softer, more supple, easier drinking side of the Montepulciano denominazione, always well-priced and widely appealing. Objectives are sought and met, consistent and reliable. A fine entry point into Tuscan Sangiovese. Drink now-2030 or so. Tasted February 2025.
91 Podere Tiberini Vino Nobile di Montepulciano SELEZIONE Vigne Vecchie di Famiglia 2019
Attractive aromatics lead here in this old vine Vino Nobile from Tiberini, with oak influence well integrated and ripe, dark cherry fruit leading. The palate is medium-full, succulent and zesty, with fine fluidity and integrated tannins at this point. Acids remain lively and length and depth are very good. A delightful, well-balanced wine all in all, drinking well now or hold into the early-’30s. Tasted February 2025.
That’s all for this report, see you ’round the next bottle.
