Buyer’s Guide to Vintages January 18th Release
Wine Gives us Reasons to Hope
by David Lawrason, with notes from Michael Godel, Megha Jandhyala and Sara d’Amato
It is not just a little ironic that Vintages January 18 Catalogue features “sustainable winemaking” in California as Los Angeles burns, and the United States inaugurates a climate change agnostic as president.
But let’s be positive here folks. Environmental concerns are no less critical just because Trump is now in power — for only four years. The environmental fight must be kept going by businesses that get the reality. And the wine industry, globally, is the perfect vector to keep it front and centre. Most winemakers are essentially farmers, deeply connected to their land and aware of climate repercussion. They are also selling their product to relatively enlightened, wealthy consumers. The wine industry must press on!
The environmental and social movements within the wine industry go well beyond California — again, because most winemakers get it no matter where they farm. I have been inundated with the “sustainable” messaging from wine regions all over the globe in the past decade. To the point of marketing/messaging nausea. But the message remains critical.
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The South African Example
And now let’s get really positive. I spent 10 days in South Africa last fall. I have been there six times, and I love the place, for its wines, sure, but more for a sense of humanity that I have not felt anywhere else on the planet — despite all the adversity its black and coloured citizens endure. I am very aware I am observing from a bubbled, privileged perspective, but this place has soul born in adversity and the need to help each other.
On my recent trip I was amazed by the emanation of this spirit, coming from the wineries I visited. I was partially hosted by PIWOSA — the Private Independent Wineries of South Africa — but the spirit is not limited to this organization. Every winery seems to have compelling stories to tell about social and environmental action.
Before I detail some of them, please realize that South Africa is essentially a poor country with a devalued currency. The majority of the impoverished population is unable to pay taxes. So, social and environmental responsibility has been handed, rightfully, to businesses and wealthier citizens.
I saw this in action during a visit to Journey’s End Winery in Stellenbosch. The winery neighbours the Sir Lowrys Pass Township where most of its workers live. It has established two classrooms for kindergarten and grade one students. It has funded a women’s sewing group to make handbags from recyclable materials. And it is funding a project to brighten up the drab township with mural art that North American taggers could only dream to emulate.
Down the road in Elgin, apple grower and winemaker Paul Cluver has established a private school on his property that is now among the largest and most successful in the Cape region. Environmentally, they are also part of a widespread program to reintroduce native vegetation to entice imperiled animal and bird species. The Cape, by the way, is one Earth’s six biospheres.
Near Hermanus, Hamilton-Russell is at the forefront of huge environmental protections as well. But I most love that Anthony Hamilton-Russell has tutored and funded his former nanny in the launch of Tesselaarsdal, a fantastic new wine, from her home village, where there was formerly no viticulture.
In Swartland, Eben Sadie is the ultimate environmentalist, with biodymanic and regenerative viticulture to the nth degree. At any given time, he is also funding multi-year college tuition for three or four of his employees. And making immaculate and exciting wines that are now very hard to find.
The Chenin Blanc Association runs an annual blind tasting competition sponsored by Standard Bank. It names the top ten chenin blancs in the country and awards a large cash prize for each, that wineries must direct to a charity of their choice. (More to come on South African chenin blanc.)
So, here is reason to hope, and I am really proud of the wine industry’s uptake around environmental and social issues.
Before getting to our recommendations this week, a note to check out Michael Godel’s latest report on Montalcino.
Here are our picks from Vintages January 18 release.
Buyer’s Guide January 18th: Sparkling Wine
De Chanceny Brut Crémant De Loire, Loire, France
$19.30, Vinexx
Megha Jandhyala – If you are looking for a reasonably priced sparkling wine to serve at parties or casual weeknight dinners, this Crémant de Loire is a great candidate. It is ever so slightly toasty and sweet, with pleasing flavours of zesty fruit and fresh herbs.
Buyer’s Guide January 18th: White Wines
Boutinot Wild House Chardonnay 2024, Western Cape, South Africa
$13.00, Noble Estates Wines & Spirits Inc.
Sara d’Amato – Boutinot, a global U.K. wine powerhouse, brings us this vibrant Western Cape Chardonnay from a single Paarl vineyard. Fermented spontaneously and aged in tank with a touch of old French oak, it’s fresh, lively and brimming with tropical fruit, citrus and apple. At under $15, it’s a clean, zesty and impressive value.
Mount Riley Limited Release Sauvignon Blanc 2024, Marlborough, New Zealand
$17.40, Woodman Wines & Spirits
Michael Godel – Ripe and exotic fruit offsets herbal-capsicum piques. Complexity and personality run high.
Kutjevo Grasevina 2023, Croatia
$16.70, Croatia Unpacked
David Lawrason – This is a very bright, exotic, tropical and floral white from the native grasevina variety, with lifted yellow plum, passion fruit, lemon blossom and grassy notes. New Zealand sauvignon crossed my mind as a reasonable comparative. This is light to medium weight and very fresh with crisp acidity.
Alain Geoffroy Vau Ligneau Chablis 1er Cru 2022, Burgundy, France
$40.15, EX-Cellars Wine Services
Michael Godel – Top-level representative of Chablis right here and at a price no longer the norm for 95-plus percent of these appellative-level wines. Likely the finest of Geoffroy’s Premier Cru Chablis.
Megha Jandhyala – Though this Chablis is not inexpensive, I would rather buy and savour one bottle of this special wine than several bottles of a cheaper, less interesting one. Simultaneously fleshy and succulent but firm and fresh; concentrated and focussed yet graceful and poised. It is all about balance, with a flavour profile that is equal parts supple fruit and stony, mineral notes.
Sara d’Amato – A refined, subtly leesy Chablis that impresses with feathery acids and a distinctive mineral backbone. The palate offers a whisper of crème fraîche, layered with lemon oil, green apple and a touch of lanolin. Its texture strikes the perfect balance, with enough viscosity to complement its freshness. A standout example from the left bank Vau-Ligneau Premier Cru.
Buyer’s Guide January 18th: Red Wines
Campet Saint Marie Vieilles Vignes Saint Chinian 2022, Languedoc, France
$14.30, Connexion Oenophilia
Sara d’Amato – A bold, expressive southern French blend that delivers everything I crave in the style: depth, power, and an enveloping character. With an intoxicating aromatic garrigue quality that features violets, licorice and bay leaf, this Saint-Chinian will have you double checking the price.
Megha Jandhyala – Earthy, savoury, and pleasantly resinous/woody, this GSM blend is quite structured and intense for a wine that costs under $15. I would buy a few bottles of this to stock my cellar with and enjoy over the next 2–3 years.
Chateau Saint Roch Corbarol Syrah/Grenache 2022, Languedoc, France
$14.85, Glencairn Wine Merchants
Megha Jandhyala – At under $15, this charming, comfortingly warm blend of old-vine syrah and grenache is a smart buy. It is delightfully fruity and peppery, displaying surprising length and depth, making it a cheap-and-cheerful wine to enjoy lightly chilled over the next year.
Basares Tempranillo 2022, Ribera Del Duero, Spain
$18.20, The Case For Wine
Michael Godel – A rare opportunity to taste easy drinking tempranillo from Ribera del Duero. Suave, anything but intimidating, and, truthfully, a great gateway drug into a northern Spanish plateau world worth pursuing.
Xavier Vieilles Vignes Côtes Du Rhône 2020, Rhône, France
$19.70, Noble Estates Wines & Spirits Inc.
Sara d’Amato – Rich, clean and tight despite a significant degree of ripeness. The cool minty character, licorice and inherent freshness quell the heat of this organically grown Côtes du Rhône with enviable length.
Domaine De La Madone Le Perréon Beaujolais Villages 2023, Beaujolais, France
$17.40, MCO Wines & Spirits
David Lawrason – This reliable producer makes quite succulent, delicious gamay. The nose blooms with red rose, strawberry-cherry jam and subtle pepper. It’s nicely fleshy and smooth with just enough acidity, alcohol warmth and mild tannin.
Megha Jandhyala – This is a vivacious Beaujolais Villages brimming with juicy red berries, tender plums, black pepper and wildflowers. I like how sprightly and supple it feels on the palate almost as much as I enjoy its crunchy finish.
Sara d’Amato – A juicy, youthful and aromatic Beaujolais Villages brimming with violet and licorice tinged with a dash of black pepper. Cleanly crafted and an excellent example of the region’s charm — simple, solid, and full of character.
Château Fontis 2019, Bordeaux, France
$23.30, WineOnline Marketing Company
David Lawrason – This sits at a fine state of evolution, with traces of leather and forest-floor maturity alongside ripe raspberry fruit, tobacco and wood spice. It is medium weight, lively yet rich with balanced acidity and warm tannin. The focus and length are excellent.
Waterkloof Circumstance Cabernet Sauvignon 2020, Stellenbosch, South Africa
$26.10, Family Wine Merchants
David Lawrason – Another South African wine over-delivers, with classic cabernet heft, structure and aromatics. It sports lifted red and blackcurrant fruit nicely fitted with fresh herbs, graphite and wood spice. And yes, a hint of medicinal/iron that is a bit of a Cape give away. Will age for several years.
Paper Road Pinot Noir 2022, Wairarapa, New Zealand
$22.60, Nicholas Pearce Wines Inc.
Sara d’Amato – From very close to the capital city of Wellington on the southern edge of the North Island in Wairarapa — which means “glistening waters” in Maori — this affable, earthy pinot noir delivers warmth, ripeness and gentle oak spice but also a surprising degree of pep of freshness. Modern and crafted with obvious care from high quality fruit. A characterful find with notable typicity for a low price.
David Lawrason – This is a nicely fragrant and well-structured pinot with all the right flavours led by classic pinot sour-cherry fruit. It is medium weight, warm (14%) and energized with firm, slightly gritty but not austere tannin.
La Rioja Alta Viña Alberdi Reserva 2019, Rioja, Spain
$27.35, ROY + CO. SELECTIONS INC.
David Lawrason Go to school here on a stoically classical Rioja, from one of my favourite producers. Now quite mature it is showing all kinds of barrel-age ambiance. It is medium weight, very smooth, warm and streamlined — for current enjoyment or cellaring another five years.
Michael Godel – A more affordable label from the high-level work of La Rioja Alta from which the barrels really speak their worth. But this shall pass. The judgement on Alberdi 2019 should remain paused because the wine holds firm and greater days lay ahead.
Il Drago E Le 8 Colombe 2019, Tuscany, Italy
$33.50, Le Sommelier Inc.
Michael Godel – The sagrantino’s tough and earthy presence persists but mostly the variety plays well with succulent sangiovese and softening merlot. This is the final year for that maturing part of its tenure to take full advantage of the charm.
Fogolar Wines Cabernet Franc Picone Vineyard 2021, Ontario, Canada
$30.95, MARYNISSEN ESTATES LIMITED
Michael Godel – Big personality from 2021 and still buzzing in energy, with no immediate sight of things slowing down. Walks the razor’s edge, fine tunes at just the right moments and lives to tell its tale. A curious and invigorating cabernet franc indeed.
Stags’ Leap Winery Petite Sirah 2020, California, Usa
$52.20, Mark Anthony Group
Sara d’Amato – Broody and yet comforting, this substantial petite sirah offers both depth and warmth, making it the perfect companion for a cozy evening indoors as the weather grows colder. Features firm tannins, black fruit and the hint of bitterness that are characteristic of the variety, along with pressed wildflower and a dusting of pink pepper on the languid finish.
And that’s a wrap for this edition. John will return in two weeks with a look at the February 1st Vintages Release.
Use these quick links for access to all of our January 18th Top Picks in the New Release. Non-premium members can select from all release dates 30 days prior.
Lawrason’s Take – January 18th
Megha’s Picks – January 18th
Michael’s Mix – January 18th
Sara’s Selections – January 18th
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