Buyer’s Guide to Vintages July 5th Release

Ontario Whites Excel, I4C Chardonnay Ahead, Elbows Up for Direct Shipping and News from Burgundy

By David Lawrason with notes from Sara d’Amato and Michael Godel

The Vintages July 5 release is mediocre. Don’t panic, I will explain. Michael, Sara and I have still found some of the best wines and best values (John and Megha are on vacation) — we and present them below. But as you will see the most interesting wines are a clutch of Ontario chardonnays and rieslings.

At the upcoming International Cool Climate Chardonnay Celebration (i4C) July 17 to 20 in Niagara, you can check out how well Canada, more specifically Ontario, is doing with Chardonnay, which in my view is the very best expression of our region. As the Cave Spring CSV, Domaine le Clos Jordanne Claystone Terrace, Cloudsley and Rosehall Run JCR examples demonstrate on this release, we are making some excellent wines that are stylistically similar to white Burgundy, with which we share very similar latitude, climate and geology. Three producers from Burgundy will be pouring elbow to elbow at i4C with Ontario and BC wineries, plus wineries from England, Tasmania and Argentina. But, alas, there are fewer international wineries at this event every year. Check it all out at coolchardonnay.org .

Back to Vintages mediocrity. My issue is the dumbing down of Vintages releases thanks to the average $19.95 per bottle price. Of the 93 products on this release, 48 are $20 or under. Isn’t this supposed to be the LCBOs fine wine division? Twenty bucks may be the sweet spot that Vintages has identified to maximize sales, but it has been thus for years. So, while costs of production, marketing, shipping, etc., have climbed, Vintages is going down-scale in quality to hold the price point. Yes, there are some more expensive classics from well-established premium regions, but even here Vintages is going to the lowest possible price band in these regions — as a Chablis and Barolo demonstrate in this release. The result is expressed in a lot of WineAlign scores that are NOT 90.

Elbows Up for Direct Shipping Across Canada

The LCBO announced last week that Ontario VQA wines have increased 60% in sales since The Donald imposed his tariffs in March, and the LCBO pulled American wines and spirits from the shelves. That is huge, and great for Ontario vintners. While I also really feel badly for the blue-state American wineries and their agents in Canada who are directly suffering from this decision. Wine has historically been a political football, but in this case I am all for the statement being made by punting US wine. It was a hinge moment and issue that gave Canadian voters and politicians the courage to stand up.

On that note I am very much looking forward to The Elbows Up Coast to Coast Canadian Wine Fair coming up Saturday (July 12) at Fort York in downtown Toronto. It will feature 25 wineries from five provinces including three from BC, five from Quebec, three from Nova Scotia, one from New Brunswick and the rest from Ontario, including a who’s who from Niagara and the County. The Fair is divided into three 2.5-hour sessions with tickets only remaining for the 5 to 7:30 p.m. slot. Get your tickets here.

Fair-goers are also being asked to sign a petition to open Canada’s provincial borders to direct shipping of Canadian wine. You can sign on without being at the Fair at https://chng.it/dhhRyztnyp. There has been a lot of positive speech-making from federal and provincial leaders on the need for this to happen, to the point that many people assume it will only be a matter of days. And as much I would love to see that happen swiftly, it won’t. The Berlin Wall didn’t come down in a day either.

In June I attended and spoke at a Canadian Wine Law conference in Vancouver where interprovincial trade barriers were a key topic. I won’t get into the nitty gritty and the graphs, but there is a matrix of legal regulation and agreement in place that needs to be unraveled. They have been assembled by ten provincial bureaucracies over almost 100 years of government oversight of alcohol retailing.

When I heard that the provinces, one on one, need to do things like issue non-binding Memorandums of Understanding (MOUs), and “agree on frameworks for discussion,” my heart sank, and my eyeballs circumnavigated their sockets. The lawyers, however, will be pleased. Meanwhile I advise wineries and consumers to civilly disobey and ship ahoy! We now operate in a climate of consent, and no one would dare come after you while the bureaucrats muck out the fine print.

News from Burgundy

This Thursday (July 12) at 8:30 a.m. there will be a special Vintages V-mail release of wines from the eminent house of Bouchard Pere et Fils in Beaune. Here is the link VINTAGES Shop Online | Order from Special Offers. I have not tasted all these wines, but I did sample a handful while in conversation with the company’s new international marketing director, Victor Goichon, at the offices of Woodman Wines & Spirits, its Ontario importer.

The interesting news is that Bouchard, once Burgundy’s largest wine company, is no longer a “negotiant” that purchases grapes and wines from other producers. It has been purchased by Artemis Domaines, a French wine company that is assembling marquis estate properties like Chateau Latour, Clos de Tart, Chateau Grillet in France plus Beaux Freres in Oregon and Eisele Vineyard in Napa. The other shift is that the downsized Bouchard, as of the 2023 vintage, will no longer make wines from Burgundy’s northern Cote de Nuits region, focusing on its roots in the Cotes de Beaune.

Two of the chardonnays on the V-Release are particularly exciting: the very fine, elegant Meursault Les Clous 2022 ($118) and the exceeding powerful, deep Beaune Clos Saint Landry 2022 ($140). I did not taste the 2022 Montrachet, but it is breathtaking to see its price — $1,950 per bottle — or $162 per 2oz pour. Laugh or cry?

On a more relevant note, Burgundy is in shock at the sudden passing of Nicolas Potel at age 56, the energetic, passionate founder of Domaine de Bellene, and a negotiant company Maison Roche de Bellene. The son of famous Burgundy winemaker Gerard Potel, Nicolas forged his own youthfully dynamic company in 2009, and its elegant, polished post-modern wines have been a fixture in Ontario ever since thanks to the work of agent Nicolas Pearce. Earlier this year WineAlign reviewed several of the Bellene 2023s, including the Maison Roche De Bellene Cuvée Réserve Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2023 that is on the July 5 release. I opened a bottle in tribute on the weekend.

Here are our other picks from this release arranged in ascending price order with style groupings

White & Sparkling:

Carod L’Artisanal Pet Nat, Drôme, France
$14.95, Hektars Agence Inc
Sara d’Amato – A characterful alternative to a Moscato d’Asti, this Pet-Nat made in the Drôme region–northern end of the southern Rhône Valley where lavender fields are just as prevalent as vineyards–boasts a pleasant hit of garrigue along with typical muscat aromas of rosebud and orange blossom. Cleanly made without any notable cloudiness, this natural style fizz is semi-sweet and low in alcohol–perfectly suited to brunch time frivolities and apéro hour,

Beronia Rueda Verdejo 2024, Rueda, Spain
$15.95, Woodman Wines & Spirits
Sara d’Amato – Amid a long tasting lineup, this one snapped me to attention. Bright and engaging, it strikes a crisp yet characterful balance with notes elderflower, pear, and merlon with a hint of lime custard while its ethereal oak-free profile makes it a breezy, crowd-pleasing summer sipper.

Avondale Jonty’s Ducks Pekin White 2021, Paarl, South Africa
$18.95, The Case For Wine
Michael Godel – Waxy and dry as the Paarl desert scrub, unctuous and with as much floral aromatic volume as could be desired. One of South Africa’s most consistent whites at this price. Improves with a bit of age so 2021 is right there where you’d want it to be.
Sara d’Amato – A surprisingly soulful chenin blanc at a modest priced named for Avondale Wines’ proprietor, Johnathan ‘Jonty’ Grieve and the vineyard’s feathered foot soldiers who provide organic pest control. A swell of viscosity alludes to its gentle maturity while its impressive depth and length are proof that charm and complexity needn’t come at a premium.

Fogolar Wines Hanck Vineyard Riesling 2021, Ontario, Canada
$19.95, MARYNISSEN ESTATES LIMITED
David Lawrason – The Hanck Vineyard is one of the sites (along with adjacent Wismer) that makes Twenty Mile Bench a stand out. It is owned by King and Victoria winery, so Fogolar has purchased this fruit. It is a nicely pristine, clean, just off-dry riesling with lifted, classic aromas of lemon, petrol, linden and green apple. Crunch and some finesse.

Bodega El Porvenir De Cafayate Amauta Absoluto Torrontés 2023, Salta, Argentina
$19.95, Eurovintage Wines & Spirits
David Lawrason – From the 65-year old El Retiro vineyard in the heart of the town of Cafayate, this is a classic, exuberant yet linear torrontes with lifted candied lime, ginger, fresh mint and dill. It is light bodied, fresh and spry with a hint of sweetness. What a great summer wine for the gin and tonic crowd.
Michael Godel – Aromatic beauty with the scent of lemon spritzing through the air above the glass. So perfect with the region’s local grilled pork and side sauces, including fruit chutney and chimichurri.

Planeta Terebinto Grillo 2023, Sicily, Italy
$24.95, Noble Estates Wines & Spirits Inc.
David Lawrason – The nose is rather low key typical of this grape, but it is clean and precise with quite tropical fresh fig and banana fruit, lemon zest, subtle fresh mint and spice. It is medium weight, fleshy, smooth and warming. Chill well, with summery Mediterranean fish/calamari and salad recipes.
Sara d’Amato – A shrubby Sicilian undergrowth, Terebitino is as emblematic of the island as is the effortlessly versatile grillo grape itself. Ethereal in texture with a mouthwatering brininess, offering notes of passion fruit, green melon, green apple, and elderflower. A graceful, no-fuss choice for impromptu al fresco moments.

Wending Home Wending North 2020, Ontario, Canada
$24.95, WENDING HOME ESTATE VINEYARDS & WINERY
Sara d’Amato – We first crossed paths with this wine four years ago at the National Wine Awards of Canda where it earned a medal, but it’s only grown more compelling with time. This aromatic blend that includes ehrenfelser, auxerrois, pinot gris, riesling, gewurztraminer, and chardonnay sourced from the north block of Wending Home’s Creek Shores vineyard, is impressively youthful despite its bottle age. Dry and notably floral, it delivers a supple texture lifted by a saline minerality. An effortlessly stylish and versatile summer white.

Cave Spring Csv Chardonnay 2022, Ontario, Canada
$34.95, CAVE SPRING CELLARS
Michael Godel – Unmistakable scent of a chardonnay by Cave Spring with a sweet peppery bite. Terrific vintage for a wine often overshadowed by riesling at the CSV level. Do not sleep on 2022 chardonnay because it is a top-level wine in its own right.
Sara d’Amato – A poised and refined chardonnay with sculpted edges–its lithe minerality and acidity, fine chalkiness, and subtle viscosity are texturally stimulating. With no shortcuts taken, grapes sourced from old vine micro-parcels were whole-cluster pressed, both barrel fermented (spontaneously) and barrel aged sur lie for 18-months and with a low dose of sulphur. An artisanal wine with haute couture detail at prêt-à-porter pricing.

Rosehall Run JCR Chardonnay Estate Grown 2022, Ontario, Canada
$36.00, Rosehall Run Vineyards
Michael Godel – Arguably one of Prince Edward County’s most consistent high end chardonnays. One to be revered for its integrity, flavour profile and terrific persistence.
Sara d’Amato – A contemplative chardonnay tailored for meaningful moments. Sourced from the oldest vines in the winery’s North and South Blocks–aged 17 to 21 years at harvest, this low-yielding vintage delivers impressive concentration, and in this case, notable texture intrigue. Chalky and zesty with a light viscosity, hints of caramel and toasted pine nuts echo on the finish. Clean and polished but with a potency of character.

Le Clos Jordanne Claystone Terrace Chardonnay 2022, Ontario, Canada
$42.00, Arterra Wines Canada
David Lawrason – A big, brassy chardonnay from a great site. The nose is voluminous and complex with ripe peach, lemon, buttered toast, hazelnut, nutmeg and vanillin. A bit barrel heavy for some perhaps but effective. It is full bodied, with a glossy, bright, cohesive ambiance Great length.

Rosé

Skouras Cuvée Prestige Agiorgitiko/Moschofilero Rosé 2024, Peloponnese, Greece
$16.95, Kolonaki Group Inc
Sara d’Amato – In a sea of forgettable rosés in this release, this perfumed red-white blend rises above the rest. Dry and vivacious, it delivers zesty grapefruit pith, cherry blossom, and tender rose. Pale-hued but luminous and a pinch salty on the graceful finish.

Montes Limited Selection Rose 2024, Colchagua Valley, Chile
$16.95, Profile Wine Group (Vin Vino)
Michael Godel – Rhône varieties, of syrah and grenache, fruit-forward and punchy. Salty, herbaceous, complex and multi-purposeful as far as Rosé goes.

Eradus Sadie Rosé 2024, Marlborough, New Zealand
$19.95, Kolonaki Group Inc
David Lawrason – This pours shimmering, translucent pink. The nose is richly fruity yet subtle with persimmon/guava, fennel, pinot sour cherry and pink grapefruit. It is quite smooth, elegant and warming. Lovely texture and structure.

Red

Marquês De Borba Colheita Red 2022, Alentejo, Portugal
$15.95, Sylvestre Wines & Spirits
David Lawrason – From a fine producer in this under-appreciated region of southeast Portugal, this is a ripe, rich and spicy blend of several varieties, locals plus merlot and petit verdot, which is the secret sauce here, bringing acidity and lift. Expect quite complex aromas of black fruit, fresh herbs/evergreen, wood spice and vanilla.
Michael Godel – Juicy, fruity and notably exuberant kitchen sink Alentejo blend with six grape varieites. Clean with good clarity and generosity, especially at the low, low price.

Nieto Senetiner Don Nicanor Malbec 2022, Mendoza, Argentina
$17.95, Sylvestre Wines & Spirits
Michael Godel – Plenty of Uco Valley malbec bang for the back with depth and full complement of blackberry in this fruit. Some tannin and yet to a Mendoza malbec there is more Balsamic herbal quality than most.

Spier Seaward Shiraz 2022, Coastal Region, South Africa
$19.95, Sylvestre Wines & Spirits
Sara d’Amato – A nuanced and carefully crafted shiraz that is more in line with cooler Rhône style syrah given its peppery aromatic profile and coastal South African roots. Mulberry tonic and violets impress on its mid-weight palate with ethereal tannins that carry its finish to impressive lengths.

Marziano Abbona I Due Ricu Rosso 2021, Piedmont, Italy
$21.95, Majestic Wine Cellars
David Lawrason – This is a seldom seen blend of pinot noir, nebbiolo and barbera from a prominent family in Piedmont. It is very well made, smooth and almost rich, with the barbera adding colour and heft. The pinot and nebbiolo brings the elegance and soften the tannins.
Sara d’Amato – A polished Langhe Rosso that redefines expectations. There is a comforting tannic weight and supple texture with subtle grip beneath its surface. Notes of dried wildflower, red cherry, and bramble and even a hint of spice and juniper add depth and intrigue to this compelling wine that punches above its class.

And that is a wrap for this edition. We will be back to cover the July 19 release, with the reviews and newsletter delayed a day or two as we attend iI4C in Niagara.

David Lawrason

Use these quick links for access to all of our July 5th Top Picks in the New Release. Non-premium members can select from all release dates 30 days prior.

Lawrason’s Take – July 5th
Sara’s Selections – July 5th
Michael’s Mix – July 5th

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