Buyer’s Guide to Vintages December 14th Release

Happy HST Holiday

By David Lawrason, with notes from John Szabo, Michael Godel, Sara d’Amato and Megha Jandhyala

Well, ho, ho, ho! The 13% HST/GST tax on wine, beer and ciders has been suspended until February 15. You can riff all you want about the political motivations behind the HST holiday, but I’ll take the discount. As will the wine trade, which is seeing declining sales not just in Ontario, but across Canada and globally. I am not going to throw out months-old figures to support this. It is simply out there — heard over many conversations with wine producers in recent weeks. Nor do I want to try to soberly untangle the web of socio-cultural-lifestyle and economic reasons why it is happening. Your own educated analysis is probably very close to the truth.

But it’s Christmas, so let’s focus on giving, and more good news for Ontario consumers who collect Aeroplan points. The LCBO is offering 1000 points on 12-bottle purchases on New Release Collection and Cellar Collection wines, but just until December 21 — so get busy. Piled atop the HST break, we are talking decent economic considerations and a reason to splurge.

The December 14 release is themed on sparkling wines. Having just published John Szabo’s annual Fizz Guide we were a little gassed after tasting more than 150 bubblies. But there are some sparklers mentioned below worth your consideration. I note the debut of Palmer Reserve Brut Champagne, and the continual release of interesting wines from Niagara, including Hidden Bench’s fantastic 2017 Brut Natur and a pair from Kew Vineyards.

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In every release certain themes present themselves unexpectedly. Who knew before sitting down to taste 60 wines on this release that I would be contemplating South American cabernet franc. As it happens, there are two very good francs from Chile and Argentina, plus a Mendoza red that blends malbec and cab franc. Franc has become a more prominent as way to lighten up the heavier dense reds of Argentina in particular. There is also an excellent Chateau Haut-Simard Saint-Émilion Bordeaux that is 60% cabernet franc

I also draw attention to wines from Sicily, having just returned from a short trip to Mount Etna and the historic east coast jewel, Siracusa (Syracuse). There is a good value Etna Rosso from Torre Mora on the release, and I refer you to the excellent wines of Tornatore that are also on the shelf from previous releases. But fans of this exciting region need to follow the link to hardworking Michael Godel’s opus “Etna Days are Here to Stay.” I am so impressed with its depth and detail. Sara and John has identified to other Sicilian must-buys on this release.

One other trend is the notable contingent of less expensive reds from Eastern Europe and the Middle East, including Romania, Bulgaria, Armenia, Greece (of course) and three from Lebanon. I have noted this trend all year, with mixed results, but a general improvement in quality from this broad area.

So onward, to our picks from this release, arranged in ascending price order with style groups. Prices shown include HST, but will show up without HST on your LCBO receipt.

Buyer’s Guide December 14: Sparkling Wines

Kew Blanc De Noirs 2020, Ontario, Canada
$28.70, Arterra Wines Canada
Sara d’Amato – A well-priced local fizz to stock up on for the holidays. Aged 2 years on lees, with a rich dosage, this lofty wine features some pinot-packed power and gentle maturity. A lightly creamy mousse, with a balanced palate and substantial mouthfeel make for a well-rounded crowd-pleaser.

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There are 24 other Vintages Release recommendations this week that are currently only available to our premium members. This complete article will be free and visible to all members 30 days after publication. We invite you to subscribe today to unlock our top picks and other Premium benefits

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And that is almost a wrap for 2024. Very shortly, watch for a last-minute Gift Guide compiled by Megha Jandhyala. And please note that, given the way the holidays fall this year, we will not be able to publish our review of Vintages January 4 release until January 9. Until then… glass half full and enjoy the season. – David

Use these quick links for access to all of our December 14th Top Picks in the New Release. Non-premium members can select from all release dates 30 days prior.
John’s Top Picks – December 14th
Lawrason’s Take – December 14th
Megha’s Picks – December 14th
Michael’s Mix – December 14th
Sara’s Selections – December 14th

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