Buyers Guide to Vintages October 24th Release

John Szabo’s Vintages Buyers Guide October 24: Niagara Unicorns

By John Szabo MS, with notes from David Lawrason, Sara d’Amato, Michael Godel, and Megha Jandhyala

Stocking up for the Holidays

With the holidays fast approaching, this release is a fine opportunity to stock up, and the WineAlign Crü’s picks align neatly behind a handful of bottles. Nine wines drew more than one recommendation, and a couple drew near unanimous praise.

The most recommended wine of the release is the Kew Marsanne/Viognier 2024 ($22.95), picked by all five of us. Sara calls it “a Niagara unicorn,” Megha praises its “seductively supple texture,” and I found “that peach-pie profile, orange blossom, Turkish delight.” It has the richness and breadth for roast turkey with all the trimmings, or a Christmas Eve seafood spread (the kind I like to prepare).

For the special holiday meal, reach for López de Heredia’s Viña Cubillo Crianza 2018 ($39.95), a triple alignment. Megha finds it “complex, alluring, and refined.” David notes “a strong core of primary red cherry jam fruit” under the tertiary notes. And I love “the deceptive power at 13.5% ABV declared.” Serve it with prime rib or roast lamb.

For a homegrown option at the same table, consider the Cloudsley Pinot Noir 2023 ($36.95), which also earned three nods. Sara calls it “the sort of bottle you proudly pour for out-of-towners,” ideal with glazed ham or turkey. The Guy Lafleur Cabernet Franc 2020 ($37.95), backed by Sara and Michael and “entering a lovely stage of maturity,” makes a fine gift for the hockey fan on your list.

For larger, more casual gatherings, the Tasca d’Almerita Regaleali Nero d’Avola 2023 ($18.95) is the value play, with quadruple alignment. Megha calls it “affable, cheerful, and fresh.” Sara finds it “light on its feet.” And David deems it “straight arrow, engaging and refreshing.” Buy it by the case for open houses and buffets.

The Pipoli Aglianico del Vulture 2024 ($17.95), also a four-critic pick, is the heartier choice for tourtière or a pot of chili on hockey night. David says it’s “crammed with flavour, power, tannin and soul.”

On the white side, the Cabriz Reserva Encruzado 2025 ($19.95) earned three recommendations. Sara calls it “an excellent value,” and David points to “excellent length for an under $20 wine.” Pour it at the holiday cocktail party with canapés. The Casal di Serra Verdicchio 2024 ($18.95), which Michael calls “spot on,” has a “gently saline direction” that suits oysters and shellfish.

Finally, for a fireside evening with a cheese board, or Boxing Day leftovers, the Kilikanoon Morrison Shiraz/Cabernet 2019 ($24.95) is “a massive, dense, thick Aussie” for David, while Sara admires its “remarkably graceful evolution.”

Henry Of Pelham Lost Boys Limited Edition Bin 106 Baco Noir 2024

Spotlight on The Barolo of Serralunga d’Alba 2023

At this year’s sixth annual Serralunga Day celebrating the latest vintage release held at the Fontanafredda estate in September, 25 wines labelled Barolo del Comune di Serralunga were poured side by side: one commune, one vintage, 2023. The opening remarks set out the premise. “If we stay together, it’s possible to grow,” said Andrea Farinetti of Fontanafredda about the producers’ association. Andrea Lonardi MW, co-leading the tasting with Gabriele Gorelli MW and Canada’s own Michaela Morris (and regular NWAC judge), made the case for the commune as a unit of meaning: “It’s not just Barolo, it’s not [MGA], but it’s a real focus of the macro terroir.” Afterwards a dozen of us retreated to a closed room to agree on how to describe what we had tasted.

Read the full Serralunga report, with five to try.

Brunello di Montalcino 2021

Where does 2021 sit? The consensus places it between 2016 and 2019. “The 2021 vintage is somewhere in between the two,” says Alessandra Angelini of Altesino and Caparzo. “You know it’s a big vintage. You know it will go on forever.” Across some 30 bottles tasted, the common thread is perfume: pure cherry, wild Mediterranean scrub, and resinous herbs, often with black tea and orange zest. Tannins are generally fine and sandy, polished rather than drying, and acids are succulent and sapid, keeping the wines fluid despite considerable extract. Most of the best are surprisingly open now yet clearly built for the long haul.

Read the full Brunello report, with a half dozen of the best to try.

Buyer’s Guide Vintages October 24th: White, Rose & Sparkling

Casal Di Serra Verdicchio Dei Castelli Di Jesi Classico Superiore 2024, Marche, Italy
$18.95, Connexion Oenophilia
John Szabo – Very solid wine here for the money. I like the gently saline direction on the palate that helps to draw additional sips; length is very good.
Michael Godel – Nearly impossible to find classic verdicchio to tell the Castelli di Jesi stylistic story as well as Ronchi’s market-level SKU. Ample to substantial and balanced in a verdicchio that just feels free. Spot on.
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