Buyers Guide to Vintages August 29th Release

Binding Books and Wine

By David Lawrason with notes from John Szabo, Sara d’Amato, Michael Godel and Megha Jandhyala

This smaller release of 83 products is themed in Vintages catalogue as “Book Club: Thoughtful Wines and Literary Pairings.” Although the selection process is not explained in detail, apparently Vintages staffers and “their friends at Indigo Books” got together to match 17 wines with 17 books, based very loosely on literary themes like “Romantic Fling,” “Worlds Collide,” “Magical Fantasy” and “Ancient Lore,” to name some. It seems a well-considered collection of literary themes, even if the wine matches are not always intuitive.

This continues a trend at Vintages to market wines based more on how we might enjoy them and less about what they are, where they are from and who made them – which is very much a modern marketing strategy. On the last release they were matching wines to take-out food, also a useful idea. And if you haven’t read John Szabo s deep dive on this topic, I urge you to order in, pull a bottle and give the article a read while waiting for your food to arrive. It is one of his best pieces in a rich catalogue over the years.

And speaking of good reads by WineAlign critics, the much-awaited new book on Chianti Classico by Michael Godel is just arriving on our shores. It is not yet released or available for purchase, but it is called “The Next Rooster, Chianti Classico’s New Generation.” The title references the Gallo Nero logo of the Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico, the body that regulates and markets the wines of this important DOCG wine region in Tuscany. Michael is the Consorzio s brand ambassador in Canada, giving him a front row seat to the changes propelling the region into the modern era.

Says Michael: “Through 44 essays, [the book] brings together the stories of families whose lives, vineyards and futures are rooted in the hills of one of Italy s most historic and dynamic wine regions. The next generation are stepping into roles shaped by inheritance, responsibility and change.”

But back to book clubs, which are an increasingly important human element of our modern times. I belong to a book club too, but only in name. It is actually a boy’s night out BYO wining and dining night, where never a page has been turned and the only reading we do is back labels. But the group is a fascinating collection of musicians, entrepreneurs, finance guys and scientists. The conversations are always stimulating, and the camaraderie is the glue. I am the book club sommelier, threading wine education through the many conversations.

And this is wine’s role in our world. Being an elixir and catalyst, bringing people together, loosening conversation, encouraging creativity and exchange, while bringing its own fascinating and detailed personality into the mix. In an era of growing screen-time isolation and global ennui it is imperative that this continue, and that wine, which has performed this role throughout history, not be demonized and marginalized.

A Franco-Canadian Gamay Tutorial

Speaking of education, we often find unexpected themes and connections as we taste through Vintages selections. This time there is a happenstance of gamays from Ontario and France, and one wine that threads both. And it will only take the purchase of four wines, for a total of $105, to make this a talking and teaching point at your next club meeting. There are two Ontario gamays, one classic Beaujolais and one Beaujolais made in France by Ontario winemaker Thomas Bachelder (see review below).

He, and a handful of others in Niagara, are elevating the gamay grape to the status of a core variety in Ontario, joining riesling, chardonnay, cabernet franc and pinot noir. But Ontario gamay is not necessarily being made in Beaujolais’s softer, fruity, juicy style — they are often more firm with subtle minerality and wood ageing. These wines can be more pinot noir-like.

The one traditional Beaujolais — Chateau des Tours Brouilly 2024 — is absolutely delicious and classic, and a pick below. From Niagara, the Back 10 Cellars Everything at Stake Gamay 2024, is a typical, pale, quite complex and rigid Ontario example. Hidden Bench 2024 Gamay is rigid too, but more aromatically complex, compelling and intense. Then along comes the Beaujolais made by Bachelder that is very much fruity and floral French gamay on the nose, with a firmness and minerality that hearkens to Ontario on the palate.

There are many other interesting wines in this mix as always, so lets move right to our critics’ picks, arranged in ascending price order within style categories. We were a full complement of five this time, extending the list below.

Buyer’s Guide Vintages August 29: Sparkling

Pere Ventura Primer Organic Reserva Brut 2023, Penedès, Spain
$20.95, Rogers & Company
Megha Jandhyala – This dry Cava will appeal to most wallets and palates! Showcasing both breadth and depth of flavour, it features notes of toasted brioche, roasted nuts, and fresh and dried stone and orchard fruit. Neither lean nor rich, just gently creamy and lively, it is the kind of sparkling wine that would make Goldilocks happy.
Michael Godel – Aromatics, flavour compounds and spices bring more than the average to a dry sparkling wine at a really good price.
David Lawrason – Such a complex, exotic and intriguing nose of apricot, honey, barley sugar and strudel pastry, with a rancio/peanut note as well. It is full flavoured and quite intense, with a sense of sweetness yet great acidity. Almost sherry-like, or at least definitely very Spanish.

Buyer’s Guide Vintages August 29: White & Rosé

Bacalhôa Catarina White 2024, Setubal, Portugal
$15.95, Colio Estate Wines
John Szabo – Fernão pires, chardonnay and arinto are blended to make this simple but enjoyable white from Portugal, an easy stand-in for (often more expensive) gently wood aged chardonnay from more expensive postal codes. An easy by-the-glass option for something a little different but also familiar.

Paul Mas Le Rosé 2025, Languedoc, France
$16.95, Roy+ Co. Selections Inc.
Sara d’Amato – Not the rosé of the year, perhaps, but one worth making a case for. It bucks the uber-pale Provençal template, taking on a little more colour, and more gastronomic appeal, through maceration. Clean, easy-drinking and decidedly Rhône-ish in spirit, with a clever blend of grenache noir and gris, cinsault, pinot gris, and a dash of local caldoc, a grenache-malbec crossing bred in France for its resistance to coulure. Good value and refreshingly unconcerned with being fashionable.

Vesevo 2025, Campania, Italy
$17.95, Profile Wine Group (Barrique)
Sara d’Amato – Bright, breezy Falanghina with a citrus-meets-tropical-fruit profile that’s almost Mai Tai-esque. Starfruit, peach and plenty of juicy freshness, no oak, and a charming 13% alcohol with just enough substance. A bring-a-flask-to-the-beach kind of white — engaging and should satisfy widely.

Badenhorst Secateurs Chenin Blanc 2025, Swartland, South Africa
$19.95, The Living Vine
John Szabo – Hard to believe this is still at the same price it has been for some time — a fine wine for $20 to be sure. Adi Badenhorst is a leader of the Swartland — and South African — wine revolution. Sapidity is high, acid succulent and pleasure guaranteed. Enjoy over the near term.
Michael Godel – Aromatic, mouth filling and lengthy. That’s what you need, and want, from South African chenin blanc.
Megha Jandhyala – This is excellent chenin blanc offered at a price that strains credulity. I love its focused and varietally aligned flavour profile and satin silk-like texture. Its length, too, is impressive.
David Lawrason – This delivers all kinds of flavour complexity and mouth-filling structure for $20, made by one of the pioneering and legendary producers of the Swartland. Chenin pear is at the core but there are so many other flavours. It is medium-full bodied, firm and a bit coarse, but balance is maintained and the length is excellent.

13th Street Winery Expression Cabernet Franc Rosé 2025, Ontario, Canada
$19.95, Noble Estates Wines & Spirits Inc.
John Szabo – A perfect late summer wine, when you can’t decide whether it’s still rosé season or if it’s time to switch to red. This is rather a more like a light red than pink wine — and it’s savoury and delicious, salty and saline. I like the intensity and the range of flavours, the chillable red wine vibe.

Alpha Estate Turtles Single Vineyard Malagouzia 2025, Greece
$21.95, The Kolonaki Group Inc.
John Szabo – Alpha’s always impressive malagouzia offers the florals and fruit of albariño and riesling, and a palate more in line with viognier, with a fleshy, broad structure (and a generous 13.5% ABV). Loads of wine here for the money.
Michael Godel – Macedonia and malagouzia, match made in wine heaven. Acid retentive and fruit accentuated, sharp and then creamy in the middle, substantial and elevated.
David Lawrason – What a great late summer white! Malagousia is a floral, tropical scented variety that packs good weight and volume, and is increasingly popular. This is medium-full bodied, fleshy, warm and fresh at the same time. Very complete, with a sense of the pristine.

Loveblock Chardonnay 2022, Marlborough, New Zealand
$29.95, The Vine Agency
Michael Godel – Complex influences here, of spice and spiced butter, masala of ingredients that form and fill. Plenty of flavour upside and textures to ruminate over, all as extra fodder for chardonnay.
David Lawrason – From Kim and Erica Crawford’s Awatere property, this presents both tropical ripeness and power in a somewhat slender frame thanks to the acidity of the cooler origin. The nose is nicely lifted and very complex. It is quite smooth, creamy and intense and finishes with excellent to outstanding length.

Huff Catherine’S Chardonnay 2023, Ontario, Canada
$34.00, Huff Estates
David Lawrason – Frederic Picard has quietly been making excellent chardonnays in PEC for more than 20 years. This pale gold, barrel-fermented version shows impressive complexity with well-integrated sourdough, cashew, peach pit and yellow flower aromas. It is medium weight, built on the County’s higher acid frame, but is texturally rich.

Buyer’s Guide Vintages August 29: Red

Lubanzi Cinsault 2024, Swartland, South Africa
$18.95, Predhomme Market Insights Inc.
Megha Jandhyala – This is an appealingly simple and unassuming cinsault from a climate neutral and B Corp certified winery in the Cape. Defined by flavours of juicy red berries, it will pair well with late summer or autumn garden parties.

Rustenberg Cabernet Sauvignon 2023, Stellenbosch, South Africa
$19.95, Woodman Wines & Spirits
John Szabo – Mature and drinking well now, Rustenberg’s well-priced cabernet sauvignon delivers a range of dark fruit starting to slip into the more savoury side of the spectrum, with good extract and impressively long finish in this price category.
Sara d’Amato – Cabernet with polish, grip and zero sticker shock. Clean, and vibrant with an elegant, mid-to-full–bodied frame. Youthful, with rich fruit, well-managed alcohol and a lingering finish of graphite and pressed wildflower.

Château Des Tours Brouilly 2024, Beaujolais, France
$23.95, Woodman Wines & Spirits
Michael Godel – Seriously forthright and crunchy gamay from a getable vintage for immediate gratification.
Megha Jandhyala – This cheerful and inviting gamay comes from the largest and southernmost of Beaujolais ten crus. I like how fresh, bright and uncluttered it feels, as also its fidelity to place and grape.
David Lawrason – I have been enjoying this definitive Brouilly for years, a lovely, even, fresh and juicy gamay with a very pretty nose. It is supple but not soft with gentle alcohol warmth (13%) and very fine tannin. Fits together very well. Chill a bit.

Mommessin Mary & Thomas Bachelder Beaujolais-lantignié 2023, Beaujolais, France
$24.95, Univins (Ontario)
Sara d’Amato – Canadian vignerons and winemakers Mary and Thomas Bachelder embark on a project in collaboration with Burgundian producer Mommessin in the Beaujolais region. Not quite a cru (yet), Beaujolais-Latignié (near Régnié and close to Morgon) is a lesser-known village appellation with a steeply pitched technicolour terroir of pink and blue granite. The result is a peppery red with youthful vibrancy and yet with structure. A value of note in this release.

Leaning Post Cuvée Winona 2023, Ontario, Canada
$28.95, Leaning Post Wines
Sara d’Amato – Ready to go, but with plenty to say. Named for the town on Niagara’s western edge, this expressive blend of merlot, cabernet franc and a welcome splash of syrah is concentrated without feeling heavy. An early-accessible vintage with relaxed tannins and a lively backbone. Niagara red with a little Rhône swagger.
Megha Jandhyala – Equal parts fruity, spicy, earthy and herbal, this blend of merlot, cabernet franc and syrah is flavourful and approachable. The character of each variety in the assemblage adds its own distinctive flair to the ultimately harmonious melody of this wine.

Hidden Bench Gamay 2024, Ontario, Canada
$29.95, Mark Anthony Wines & Spirits
John Szabo – Dense and meaty gamay, more substantial and structured than the mean, well within the Hidden Bench house style of serious wines in general. It’s silky-firm and juicy, without hard edges.
Sara d’Amato – Another fashionably lighter red of note — this time a slightly more structured style of gamay that has already started to loosen its tie. A silver medal winner at the 2026 National Wine Awards of Canada, it comes from select hand-harvested blocks of Hidden Bench’s organic, sustainably farmed estate vineyard. Brief French-oak aging adds polish without crowding the peppery forest-berry fruit.

Borgo Scopeto Vigna Misciano Riserva Chianti Classico 2021, Tuscany, Italy
$35.95, The Case For Wine
John Szabo – A fine and ultimately well-priced Chianti Classico. It’s drinking well now but will sit comfortably for another decade in the cellar, if desired, for the full earthy-savoury potential. I love the succulent acids and the sapid, saline, stony notes underpinning the bright red fruit flavours, in the classic idiom with savoury herbs surrounding.
Michael Godel – One of the fresher meets well-structured Vagliagli sangiovese, with a good compliment of local Balsamico. Slightly lesser and conversely more concentrated crop really defines the greenness, a.k.a. the “macchia” of this Riserva’s origins.
David Lawrason – This is a complex and detailed Riserva getting close to prime time flavourwise, although still showing tannic firmness indicating another five to ten years of enjoyment. It shows lifted, classic cran-raspberry, basil/mint, dried pine needle, barrel toast and spice. The length is excellent.

San Silvestro Patres Barolo 2021, Piedmont, Italy
$37.95, Vintage Trade Wine
Sara d’Amato – A Barolo that punches well above its price. Youthful with a whiff of creamy vanilla oak, plenty of fresh fruit, fig and dried leaf, and the classic Nebbiolo combination of grippy yet silty tannins. There’s already some fleshiness emerging, but this is still a work in progress.

Buyer’s Guide Vintages August 29: Fortified, Sake

Barbeito 5-years-old Rainwater Reserva Medium Dry Madeira, Madeira, Portugal
$18.95, Le Sommelier Inc.
John Szabo – Another silly value in fortified wine, and from a leading producer on the island of Madeira. I’d have this on hand for after-dinner occasions, fireside chats, cheese plates, dried fruit desserts and contemplative Sunday afternoons.
Sara d’Amato – Love at first sip, and quite possibly a one-way ticket to Madeira. This inviting blend of tinta negra and verdelho spends five years aging in French oak via the traditional Canteiro method, slowly concentrating its flavours through evaporation. Dramatic, complex and utterly captivating. A showstopper. Enough said.

Dewazakura Yukimegami 48 Junmai Daiginjo Sake, Japan, World
$30.95, Metropolitan Wines & Spirits
John Szabo – An exceptional Daiginjo with ample character, brewed from a newly developed local rice strain polished to 48%. It’s densely packed with flavour, a real mealy, umami-rich fruit and flower-inflected expression with implicit sweetness. I love the richness and balance.
Megha Jandhyala – I find the texture of this sake particularly alluring — it is delightfully curvaceous and tender, with a hint of refreshing bitterness and soft warmth on the finish. Gentle notes of toasted jasmine rice, roasted sesame seeds and citrus preserve and zest make up its pretty flavour profile.

And that is a wrap for this edition. We return to cover the September 12 release, which — as always at the beginning of harvest — features Ontario wines. – David

Use these quick links for access to all of our August 29th Top Picks in the New Release. Non-premium members can select from all release dates 60 days prior.

John’s Top Picks – August 29th
Lawrason’s Take – August 29th
Megha’s Picks – August 29th
Michael’s Mix – August 29th
Sara’s Selections – August 29th

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