Buyer’s Guide to Vintages September 21st Release

Settling Scores
By David Lawrason with notes from John Szabo, Michael Godel, Sara d’Amato and Megha Jandhyala

Vintages Sept 21 release publication highlights “High Scoring Wines.” I rise to the bait like a bass at sunrise.

I don’t want to get too deep on all the issues around score-flation, credibility of sources and the damage that wonky scoring is doing to the integrity not only of wine criticism but of the retailers like the LCBO who use the scores. I do want to re-state our position at WineAlign (below) and help our readers — especially new ones — navigate the scoring minefield.

The single most useful navigational tool at your disposal is the price-score relationship. When you see very high 90s scores for inexpensive wines be very wary. There are some egregious examples on this release. Gandarada 2020 Dao from Portugal scoring 95 with a price tag of $13.95. Zonte’s Footsteps 2020 Vermentino from Australia scoring 98 at $18.95. Chateau Candeley 2020 Bordeaux scoring 95 at $16.95.

There are couple of things driving this trend. One is that some reviewers are factoring lower price/value into their ratings, which to me is intellectually dishonest. And it signals that there is a commercial intent afoot. I am not saying these reviewers are being paid directly to score high, but they are well aware that high scores create sales and bring attention to their own businesses.

This attention seeking applies to major wine competitions as well as individuals. Several have arbitrarily set high bars for the awarding of medals. The Decanter World Wine Awards has pegged a score of 95 as their threshold for a gold medal. Thus, when Decanter magazine reviews that gold-medal wine, it is scored 95. In this case I have marginally more faith because the wine was at least panel tasted blind without price being known.

Quality should be the only thing that matter when it comes to scores. There are many existential and complicated factors that affect price, but quality — defined by balance, length, intensity and complexity — is the measurable core of the matter. Once in the glass a wine can no longer hide behind its label, story or price, and an experienced, objective taster can have it.

So, the best advice I have for WineAlign readers is to stick with us. Self-serving as that may be. Among all the major wine-scoring entities out there, we are the lowest scorers, which is not helping our business model. Many wineries and importers ignore us because our lower scores won’t help them sell wine.

But we are not doing this for them, and we are trying to be realistic and consistent because we have been doing this a long time and value the credibility with consumers that we have established.

What are our parameters? About 50% of the wines in Vintages releases are in the $15.95 to $24.95 price range. At this price the wine should be very good quality which we measure as 85 to 90 points. From $25 to $50 the wine should be excellent quality which we measure as 91 to 95 points. Over $50, the wine should be outstanding and scoring 95-plus. You rarely see us scoring in this range because frankly we rarely have access to the world’s greatest wines, partially because these self-assured wineries don’t seek scores.

What we do to express value is apply a five-star rating system, which we feel is a more important tool. But it only works in conjunction with the quality score, not being a replacement for it. And helping you find the best wine for your money is what this newsletter, indeed this entire enterprise is all about.

Here are our recommendations for this release, including multiple alignments on an excellent New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc and a great Spanish Rioja.

FYI: We were pleased to be highlighted in the September 21, 2024 Vintages New Releases magazine as a review source that the LCBO trusts. WineAlign is listed among the most respected wine publications in the world. When it comes to wine contests we also run the National Wine Awards of Canada where all wines are tasted blind by our panel of judges.

Source: Vintages Magazine September 21, 2024

Buyer’s Guide September 21: White

Man Free Run Steen Chenin Blanc 2023, Coastal Region, South Africa
$16.95, Vonterra
David Lawrason – This is a nifty buy, showing better depth than expected for $16.95, sourced from some older vines which is a common thread in South Africa. What appeals most is the very keen acid line and integration of alcohol and very subtle sweetness. The aromas are classic chenin green apple/pear and a touch of lees – not highly complex.

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There are 23 other Vintages Release recommendations this week that are currently only available to our premium members. This complete article will be free and visible to all members 30 days after publication. We invite you to subscribe today to unlock our top picks and other Premium benefits

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“For the cost of a good bottle of wine we’ll help you discover hundreds of great ones.”

And that’s a wrap for this edition. We return for the October 5 release with some recommendations around Thanksgiving.

– David Lawrason

Use these quick links for access to all of our September 21st Top Picks in the New Release. Non-Premium members can select from all release dates 30 days prior.
Lawrason’s Take – September 21st
Megha’s Picks – September 21st
Michael’s Mix – September 21st
Sara’s Selections – September 21st
Szabo’s Smart Buys – September 21st

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