Special Report: More Argentina
A deeper discussion about Argentina’s diversity, on varietals and from terroir, with more than 100 wines reviewed
by Michael Godel
The author in Cafayate, Salta, Argentina
A November 2018 journey to Argentina did so much more than simply introduce me to that great country’s wines. That trip was a bold reminder that travelling to the source is precisely how we leave our preconceptions behind and allow for new education to change and alter our thoughts. The people behind the product are the real story and meeting so many of Argentina’s amazing people has transubstantiated my personal Wines of Argentina psyche. I hope you all will find the opportunity to experience what I have, but failing that I have an idea, at least as a short term solution.
Related – Special Report: A Masterclass Across Argentina
Not too long ago I published an article about a trip that was indeed exactly what the title says: A Masterclass across Argentina. Visits to Mendoza and Salta helped me to gain a deeper understanding of solar radiation and high altitude wines. So, now I look across the WineAlign office and take careful note that the team is making preparations to finalize the WineAlign Exchange Argentine Wine Masterclass 12-pack. Can’t travel to Argentina? Why not let that country’s remarkable wines come to you instead.
Cafayate Valley, Salta Province
In November I had the favourable and fortuitous opportunity to travel around with the team at Wines of Argentina and now we have teamed up with WOFA to bring 12 carefully curated wines to the Ontario consumer. The box holds 12 archetypal examples (malbec and much more), selected in unanimous accord by the WineAlign crü of critics, through tastings in Argentina and at our offices. Quality in all regions of Argentina has never been higher so the pool from which to pick was deep and wide. We invite you to taste the diversity of high-altitude vineyards.
For those who see Argentina as a unilateral place of malbec, malbec and more malbec, think again. New plantations from 1200m to 2200m have characterized the need to qualify the variegate and highly diverse terroirs of Mendoza. There are now more than 1,000 hectares of cabernet franc and 18,000-plus of cabernet sauvignon. Yes there are 42,000 of malbec but that’s two-thirds and not necessarily increasing. Wouldn’t you have thought that number to be much greater? I certainly did. WOFA Educator Joaquin Hidalgo calls it “big noise from some nuts,” which loosely translates to “don’t believe everything you read or hear.” In fact, 85 per cent of malbec is grown in Mendoza and there are great ulterior terroirs out there. The key is to seek and create new styles of malbec. Notes Hidalgo, “if we use the variety to create terroir diversity it will be a great benefit.”
Canadians, Tupungato and the Andes
Only 2,249 of 21,000 plantable hectares in Guatallary are full with vines. Huge potential is still out there but water/irrigation is a limiting factor. As are ants (again, who knew?) and the foxes who chew through irrigation lines. So farmers put out water to satiate them. They must also deal with the Zonda, hot and dry winds that often come off of the eastern slopes of the Andes. Through all these challenges there is more and more talk about moving to an elegant way of producing wines. “Argentina can produce better wine. The more you talk about oak not being the thing to notice the more it shows how oaky the wines really are. The idea is to offer fruity, not so oaky wines.”
Conversations with winemakers, agriculturalists, estate directors and export managers bred a consistency of attitude and expectation across the country. And yet each encounter meant and led to something different. Dinner with Winemaker Gabriel Bloise of Chakana, Josefina Alessio of Ernesto Catena and Andrej Razumovsky of Alpamanta focused on alternative varietals, new, innovative and alternative winemaking styles. Razumovsky talked about the rains of 2016 and how harvest was three full weeks late. “Everyone was nervous,” tells Andrej, “with so much rot, but the yields were so low and yet the grapes we picked were so healthy.” Strike another notch for organic and biodynamic grape growing.
Enjoying a Salta in Salta
Agrelo Finca Decero has predicated its success on a massive single vineyard called Remolinos, but smaller production projects are the new norm. It has led to growing cabernet franc (plus tannat and syrah) and the recent addition of larger barrels is leading to wines of more florals ands overall complexities. “We’re trying to separate what we perceive is different,” explains CEO Juan Marcó. “This means increased micro-vinifications of specific blocks and plots as part of the larger single-vineyard.” Decero, “from nothing”, also has 15 hectares planted of petit verdot, which accounts for at least five if not close to 10 per cent of the total in Argentina.
In Cafayate, Salta Province, it is the Amalaya/Colomé agriculturalists, winemakers and oenologists, (including Jorge Noguera. Thibaut Delmotte, Rafael Racedo, Javier Grané) who know about the “expectation of a miracle,” especially with respect to finding water, but for here, the miracle is to be able to grow grapes and make wine. The prized vineyard El Adrenal literally means “sunny place.” and its altitude brings the sun directly to the vines. El Esteco’s Agriculturalist Rosario and Winemaker Alejandro Pepa showed us sun-kissed criolla and torrontés vines vines of 70 years or more. The moonscape of Piattelli Vinyards is where John and Arlene Malinski’s team produces exceptionally concentrated wines out of the desert; Agriculturalist Santiago Acosta, Winemakers Valeria Antolín and Javier Saldaño, Consulting Oenologist Roberto de la Mota.
With the Women of WOFA in Mendoza
I tasted upwards of 150 wines in my week spent in Argentina. That first report covered 37 wines from 37 producers. They were the 37 that struck me as being exceptional, ahead of the curve, or simply the perfect sort of examples to speak about climate, soil and of course, altitude. The following 118 tasting notes expand on so much of what Argentina does best. Crafting quality wines at high altitudes, from Patagonia to Mendoza and Salta.
Sparkling Wines
Chakana Vino Espumante Nuna Vineyard NV, Luján De Cuyo, Mendoza
Domaine Alma Negra Brut Nature NV, Mendoza
Amalaya Brut Nature, Valle De Cafayate, Salta
Canadians in Tupungato
Whites
Familia Schroeder Alpataco Chardonnay 2018, Patagonia
Alpamanta Breva Estate Chardonnay 2016, Luján De Cuyo, Mendoza, Argentina, Chapadmal, Buenos Aires
Casarena Chardonnay Owen’s Vineyard 2015, Agrelo, Mendoza
Andeluna 1300 Chardonnay 2018, Tupungato, Mendoza
Familia Zuccardi Q Chardonnay 2017, Mendoza,
Famiglia Bianchi Chardonnay 2017, San Rafael, Mendoza
Susana Balbo Signature Barrel Fermented Torrontés 2016, Uco Valley, Mendoza
Colomé Estate Torrontés 2018, Calchaquí Valley, Salta
Bodega DiamAndes de Uco Viognier 2017, Uco Valley, Mendoza
Atamisque Serbal Viognier 2018, Tupungato, Valle Du Uco, Mendoza
Domaine Bousquet Sauvignon Blanc 2017, Tupungato, Mendoza
Salentein Sauvignon Blanc Portillo 2018, Valle De Uco, Mendoza
Luigi Bosca Del Alma White Blend 2018, Wine of Argentina
Amalaya Blanco De Corte 2013, Valle De Cafayate, Salta
Fincas Las Moras Sea Creatures Lady Blanc (De Blancs) 2018, San Juan
Casa De Uco El Salvaje Blend De Blancs 2017, Valle De Uco, Mendoza
Masi Tupungato Passo Blanco 2017, Mendoza
Luigi Bosca A Rosé Is A Rosé Is A Rosé 2018, Wine of Argentina
El Esteco Blanc de Noirs 2015, Valle De Calchaquí, Salta
Cecilia Carrasco, Familia Zuccardi and Julia Halupczok, Finca Sophenia
Malbec
Familia Schroeder Saurus Select Malbec 2017, Patagonia
Trapiche Medalla Malbec 2016, Uco Valley, Mendoza
Fuego Blanco Malbec Flintstone 2016, Valle Del Pedernal, San Juan
Bodega Del Fin Del Mundo Reserva Malbec 2017, San Patricio Del Chañar, Neuquen, Patagonia
Lamadrid Single Vineyard Gran Reserva Malbec 2015, Agrelo, Luján De Cuyo, Mendoza
Hector Durigutti HD Reserva Malbec 2016, Paraje Altamira, San Carlos, Uco Valley, Mendoza
Finca Decero Malbec Remolinos Vineyard 2015, Agrelo, Luján De Cuyo, Mendoza
Bodegas Sottano Malbec Classico 2017, Mendoza
Vicentin Blend de Malbecs 2016, Mendoza
Vicentin Colosso V 2015, Mendoza
Bodegas Sottano Malbec Judas 2015, Mendoza
Luigi Bosca La Linda Private Selection Old Vines Malbec 2016, Luján De Cuyo, Mendoza
Luigi Bosca Malbec DOC 2016, Luján De Cuyo, Mendoza
Luigi Bosca Terroir Los Miradores Malbec 2016, Uco Valley, Mendoza
Domaine Bousquet Malbec 2018, Tupungato Valley, Mendoza
Domaine Bousquet Malbec Grande Reserve Vino Orgánico 2015, Tupungato Valley, Mendoza
Bodega DiamAndes de Uco Malbec 2013, Uco Valley, Mendoza
Amalaya Malbec 2017, Valle De Calchaquí, Salta
Colomé Malbec Lote Especial La Brava 2016, Valle De Calchaquí, Salta
Colomé Malbec Lote Especial El Arenal 2016, Valle De Calchaquí, Salta
Colomé Estate Malbec 2016, Calchaquí Valley, Salta
Bodega Colomé Malbec Autentico 2017, Calchaqui Valley, Salta
Colomé Malbec Altura Maxima 2015, Calchaqui Valley, Salta
El Esteco Malbec 2016, Valle De Calchaquí, Salta
Piattelli Vineyards Reserve Malbec 2017, Cafayate Valley, Salta
Piattelli Vineyards Gran Reserve Malbec 2016, Cafayate Valley, Salta
Altos Las Hormigas Malbec Clásico 2017, Mendoza
Navarro Correas Reserva Malbec Selección Del Parcelas 2017, Mendoza
Pascual Toso Malbec 2016, Mendoza
Viña Cobos Felino Malbec 2017, Mendoza
Viña Cobos Bramare Malbec 2016, Uco Valley, Mendoza
Bodegas Bianchi Finca Los Primos Malbec 2018, Mendoza
Andeluna Malbec Altitud 2016, Gualtallary, Tupungato, Uco Valley, Mendoza
Bodega Atamisque Serbal Malbec 2018, Tupungato, Mendoza
Zuccardi Polígonos 2016, San Pablo, Uco Valley, Mendoza
Zuccardi Concreto Malbec 2017, Paraje Altamira, Uco Valley, Mendoza
Finca Sophenia Estate Wine Malbec 2017, Tupungato, Mendoza
Salentein Reserve Malbec 2017, Uco Valley, Mendoza
Cabernet Franc
Alta Vista Premium Cabernet Franc 2016, Mendoza
Trivento Cabernet Franc Golden Reserve Black Edition 2017, Altamira, Uco Valley, Mendoza
Zuccardi Cabernet Franc Polígonos 2017, San Pablo, Uco Valley, Mendoza
Bodega Andeluna Cabernet Franc Pasionado 2015, Gualtallary, Tupungato, Uco Valley, Mendoza
Escorihuela Gascón Pequeñas Producciones Cabernet Franc 2016, San José De Tupungato, Mendoza
Viña Cobos Bramare Cabernet Franc Chañares Estate 2016, Los árboles, Tunuyán, Valle De Uco, Mendoza
Finca Decero Cabernet Franc Mini Ediciones Remolinos Vineyard 2017, Agrelo, Luján De Cuyo, Mendoza
Vicentin Dorado Cabernet Franc 2016, Mendoza
Argento Reserva Cabernet Franc 2016, Mendoza
Cabernet Sauvignon
Familia Schroeder Saurus Cabernet Sauvignon 2016, Patagonia
Pascual Toso Cabernet Sauvignon Alta Barrancas Vineyards 2016, Mendoza
Familia Schroeder Cabernet Sauvignon Saurus 2017, Patagonia
Sottano Reserva De Familia Cabernet Sauvignon 2016, Mendoza
Susana Balbo Cabernet Sauvignon Signature 2016, Uco Valley, Mendoza
Sophenia Cabernet Sauvignon Synthesis 2014, Gualtallary, Tupungato, Uco Valley, Mendoza
Viña Cobos Bramare Cabernet Sauvignon Marchiori Estate 2015, Perdriel, Luján de Cuyo, Valle de Uco, Mendoza
Bodega El Esteco Finca Notables Cabernet Sauvignon 2015, Calchaquí Valley, Salta
Finca El Origen Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2015, Uco Valley, Mendoza
Trapiche Cabernet Sauvignon Terroir Series Editíon Limitada Finca Laborde 2013, La Consulta, San Carlos, Mendoza
Finca Decero Cabernet Sauvignon Remolinos Vineyard 2015, Agrelo, Luján De Cuyo, Mendoza
Bodega DiamAndes de Uco Cabernet Sauvignon 2015, Uco Valley, Mendoza
Bodega El Esteco Finca Notables Cabernet Sauvignon 2015, Calchaquí Valley, Salta
Piattelli Vineyards Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2017, Cafayate Valley, Salta
Argento Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva 2016, Mendoza
Navarro Correas Alegoría Cabernet Sauvignon Gran Reserva 2015, Agrelo, Mendoza
La Mascota Cabernet Sauvignon 2017, Cruz De Piedra, Mendoza
Finca Sophenia Estate Wine Cabernet Sauvignon 2017, Tupungato, Mendoza
Other Reds and Blends
Familia Schroeder Saurus Select Pinot Noir 2017, Patagonia
Bodega Atamisque Serbal Pinot Noir 2018, Tupungato, Mendoza
Finca Decero Syrah Remolinos Vineyard 2015, Agrelo, Luján De Cuyo, Mendoza
Finca Decero Petit Verdot Mini Ediciones Remolinos Vineyard 2014, Agrelo, Luján De Cuyo, Mendoza
Colonia Las Liebres Bonarda Clasica 2018, Mendoza
Finca Decero Amano Remolinos Vineyard 2014, Agrelo, Luján De Cuyo, Mendoza
Bodegas Sottano Reserva Blend 2016, Mendoza
Luigi Bosca La Linda Private Selection Smart Blend Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah & Tannat 2016, Luján De Cuyo, Mendoza
Luigi Bosca Gala 2 DOC, Luján De Cuyo, Mendoza
Luigi Bosca Finca Los Nobles Cabernet-Bouschet “Field Blend” 2013, Las Compuertas, Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza
Luigi Bosca Icono 2011, Las Compuertas, Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza
Domaine Bousquet Gaia Red Blend Vino Orgánico 2017, Tupungato Valley, Mendoza
DiamAndes Gran Reserve Malbec/Cabernet Sauvignon 2013, Uco Valley, Mendoza
Amalaya Gran Corte 2016, Valle De Calchaquí, Salta
Colomé Lote Especial Tannat 2016, Calchaqui Valley, Salta
El Esteco Merlot Fincas Notables 2015, Valle De Calchaquí, Salta
El Esteco Tannat Fincas Notables 2015, Valle De Calchaquí, Salta
El Esteco Altimus Icon Wine 2015, Valle De Calchaquí, Salta
Piattelli Vineyards Reserve Malbec/Tannat 2017, Cafayate Valley, Salta
Piattelli Vineyards Arlene Series Blend 2016, Cafayate Valley, Salta
Susana Balbo Brioso 2016, Agrelo, Mendoza
Navarro Correas Juan De Dios Gran Vino De Corte 2013, Agrelo, Mendoza
Viña Cobos Cocodrilo Corte 2016, Mendoza
Fincas Las Moras Paz Malbec 2016, San Juan
Unanime Gran Vino Tinto 2014, Uco Valley, Mendoza
Famiglia Bianchi Nebbiolo Malbec 2015, San Raphael, Mendoza
Andeluna Pasionado Quatro Cepas 2015, Gualtallary, Tupungato, Uco Valley, Mendoza
Masi Tupungato Passo Doble Malbec Corvina 2016, Mendoza
Clos De Los Siete 2013, Uco Valley, Mendoza
Thanks again for reading up on Wines of Argentina. Now is the time to order your Masterclass in a Box. After tasting through these 12 incredible wines you’ll have no choice but to begin planning your visit to the wine regions of Argentina.
Good to go!
godello