Chacun Son Vin - Awards - 2023 NWAC Other Single Red Varieties

Results of the 2023 WineAlign National Wine Awards of Canada (The Nationals)

Other Single Red Varieties

Category Overview by Judge Geoffrey Moss, MW

(Jump straight to the medal winners.)

Perhaps a more apt name for this category is emerging red varieties. These are single-varietal red wines made from grape varieties represented by a relatively small number of entries. Even collectively, this category represents only four percent of submissions. So, yes, we’re talking about varieties that fall well outside of the status quo.

It’s not purgatory, though. The clear path out: more entries. Look no further than Malbec, which feels like it’s on the cusp of a breakout. There were 20 entries this year, of which 70 percent earned a medal. It’s an impressive medal accumulation, which puts the grape alongside other Canadian stalwarts like riesling and cabernet franc.

It’s no secret why. Malbec is flourishing in the Okanagan Valley, even if the total acreage remains relatively meagre. Plantings increased by 20 percent from 2014 to 2019, totaling 122 acres as of the most recent acreage report. This year’s results make a good argument for more plantings — and more single-varietal expressions. (Last year, Malbec was also responsible for four of the six gold medal wines in this category.) Look no further than gold medal efforts from Painted Rock, CedarCreek, and Van Westen. All three demonstrate why Okanagan malbec is so compelling: enticing aromatics, expressive dark fruit, and a distinctive, savoury freshness. At this stage, Malbec has rightfully earned its own seat at the table.

Another Bordeaux variety, petit verdot, isn’t far behind. Typically, petit verdot is added in small amounts to bolster a Bordeaux blend. But single-varietal bottlings can be more than just a curiosity — especially in exceptional vintages. It’s no surprise that three of the four gold medal winners come from 2020, a warm, benchmark vintage for both Niagara (Organized Crime) and the Okanagan (Blasted Church and Road 13). The 2019 Seaside Pearl Petit Verdot is the impressive exception.

Beyond malbec and petit verdot, it’s encouraging and reassuring to see wineries continuing to experiment with less-common varieties. No doubt, it would be easier to plant chardonnay or merlot. For those on the frontier, there’s no predicting the results. If anything, this category serves as a litmus test for what’s working (and what’s not).

Zinfandel is more commonly associated with the warmest winegrowing regions of California, but Orofino shows it can perform just as well in the Similkameen. Light, juicy reds also have done well this year, with a strong showing of Austrian and Italian varieties among the gold medal winners. Lailey — reborn under new ownership — makes the case for zweigelt in Niagara, while Modest Wines does the same for Blaufränkisch in the Similkameen Valley. Italian varieties don’t always travel well, but Moon Curser has demonstrated for years that dolcetto thrives on the sun-soaked Osoyoos East Bench. Further north on the Naramata Bench, Tightrope shows that another Piedmontese variety, barbera, does well in the Okanagan, too. Now we’re just waiting for nebbiolo next year (hopefully).

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